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AE 80 troubleshooting

Started by Greg G., May 02, 2010, 05:30:24 PM

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JorgeAmely

The Teltone has a battery of 48 volts and 616 has 26 Vdc. They behaved the same on this side of the country.
Jorge

Phonesrfun

My take is that if you are going to test the ringer, you may as well test it with the cap in series.  That way, you are testing it the way it will be when it is hooked up.  You would not normally hook up a ringer in a phone without its cap anyway.

Briny has a Panasonic 308, and I understand he got some clip leads a while ago, and I am pretty sure he has a wire with modular on one end and either bare or spades on the other.  He should be ringing up a storm by now....

....Greg?

-Bill G

Jim Stettler

My take is if you are testing the ringer, test the ringer. A cap test is step 2.
JMO,
Jim
You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.

Phonesrfun

Well, you can test the ringer with an ohmeter for resistance and conductivity, and you can do the same with the cap.  However, I have seen cases where something ohms out just fine and still won't work.  Hooking it to a 616 or a 308 and ringing it will test it right away.  If it still fails. it won't tell you which one of the two is at fault, but that is easy enough to isolate.

As Jorge said, hooking the ringer up "barefoot" to the phone line or the 616 or the 308 or whatever can be done.  The ringer resistance is not probably going to trip the ringing current, however, without the cap to isolate it from the DC, the DC will bias the ringer to only respond on half of the AC cycle, and it just won't ring well that way.

That's all I was saying.
-Bill G

Greg G.

Quote from: Phonesrfun on May 11, 2010, 09:44:03 PM
My take is that if you are going to test the ringer, you may as well test it with the cap in series.  That way, you are testing it the way it will be when it is hooked up.  You would not normally hook up a ringer in a phone without its cap anyway.

Briny has a Panasonic 308, and I understand he got some clip leads a while ago, and I am pretty sure he has a wire with modular on one end and either bare or spades on the other.  He should be ringing up a storm by now....

....Greg?


I've been at work.  I usually don't mess with them when I get home, too tired.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Greg G.

Should this method have worked?  I simply rigged the ringer to another phone that was known to be good and called the extension.  It not only didn't ring, but now the "good" phone isn't ringing either, where as it was before, but I'll deal with that later.  I made careful notes of the ringer wiring, so I know I hooked it up correctly, e.g. on the "good" phone, the ringer wires went black/15, white/16, green/6, red/7.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

stub

#21
Brinybay,
              Just take your ringer's green & white and tie together and put L-1 to black and L-2 to red without the rest of phone and call the ext. It should ring .
             Mine won't ring barefoot or hotwired at all on telephone Co.
             You can fix the other phone later .   stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

stub

Brinybay ,
               The phone on the left, in pic,  ringer is wired like this -

   Ringer red - 15
   Ringer green - 16
   Capacitor white - 16
   Capacitor black - 9
               Now check your line in cord and see where the yellow wire is hooked to. If it is on green good. Hook the other end of yellow to 9.   If it's not hooked in your mod. end then just put a jumper from 9 to 6 should work for both networks, 1154A and 1120A      Hope this helps.   stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

Greg G.

#23
Quote from: stub1953 on May 12, 2010, 04:07:51 PM
Brinybay,
             AE used the yellow wire to to bring L2 to the ringer. You can use either way and it will work. The line cord should have the yellow in it just tie it to the green wire and hook the other end of yellow  to 9  .  stub

What the heck happened to my reply?  Anyway, it was just a matter of moving the yellow wire on the biscuit over to the green on the biscuit.  I had yellow to yellow.  With yellow to yellow, it would only ring with the jumper from 9 to 6 on the phone.  Ok, now I can set this one aside until I go to polish it.  I prefer to get all my phones fully functioning, then go back and do the cosmetics later.

Now it's time for lunch and a nap before work.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Jim Stettler

ISTR testing ringers directly across the phone line. However that was years ago and my my test setup had  a ksu power supply for talk and ring as well as 2 telco lines running into it.

I could be remembering the KSU ring supply.

My set-up looked pretty cool.
I could switch between telco and local battery.

on the telco side I could switch between line 1 and 2
on the Local side I could switch between talk battery and ring. In the ring position I had a ringer button and neon indicator.

I also had a dial wired in since there was a  dial spot.

I had mod and binding post take-offs and a mini network so I could also use the tester as a 2-line phone.

I also had a monitor speaker hooked to the box.

It was a fun and functional setup. I abandoned it after I got a BK Precision 1045 telephone tester.





All of this was wired into a small piece of test gear that had lots of switches and switch holes. I made it a point to use all of the exsisting holes.
Jim
You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.

Greg G.

This is one for the experience column.  Almost this entire thread was all because we were looking on the wrong end for the problem.  I'm just glad it was something simple.   ::)
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e