Date stamps - What did they actually use?

[Greg G.]

I'm trying to use that vintage W/E stamp kit (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=5557.0) to redo a date stamp I accidentally destroyed on one of my 5302s.  It's not as easy as it looks.  I'm using another 5302 as a guide to the font size and spacing.  I'm beginning to think they used small stencils on these, because I mostly get a "reverse image" no matter how careful I am (see pic of practice sheet below).  The best I did was a smeary image, not anything like the neat, clean, and evenly spaced stamping on the guide I'm using.  But on the other hand, some markings I see look like they were hand painted w/o any sort of stencil or stamp (Example - the "LOUD" and "5302G" stamps on on the bottom of the same 5302 I'm using as a guide).

[AE_Collector]

It has been a loooonnnng time since I've used one of those kits but my guess is you have way too much ink and possibly you are pressing down too hard to stamp the number. Got to clean off all the ink and then spread it much thinner on the paper. Then pick up the ink with the stamp and try a test stamp. Eventually you will get the right amount of ink that is needed.

Terry

[Greg G.]

Thanks for the tips, I know it'll take some practice, but it just got me to wondering what they actually used.  That can't be a hand-inked, hand-stamped marking in my example, either on the date stamp or the other parts (except maybe the markings on the bottom).

[paul-f]

I'm trying to use that vintage W/E stamp kit (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=5557.0) to redo a date stamp I accidentally destroyed on one of my 5302s.  It's not as easy as it looks.  I'm using another 5302 as a guide to the font size and spacing.  I'm beginning to think they used small stencils on these, because I mostly get a "reverse image" no matter how careful I am (see pic of practice sheet below).  The best I did was a smeary image, not anything like the neat, clean, and evenly spaced stamping on the guide I'm using.  But on the other hand, some markings I see look like they were hand painted w/o any sort of stencil or stamp (Example - the "LOUD" and "5302G" stamps on on the bottom of the same 5302 I'm using as a guide).

There are some hints in the BSPs...

http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_details&gid=3979&Itemid=2

http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_details&gid=4183&Itemid=2

Sets and components that were marked in the factory probably used a different method than was used in the field.  If the stampings were done by hand, the workers doing them could probably do them perfectly in their sleep -- as they did hundreds per shift.  It would take us years of practice to match their skill.

[cihensley@aol.com]

Brinybay:

I don't know what was used at the WECo factory, but I can get what I think are good, legible, in-line figures with my Neuses stamping kit. It takes some practice but the technique does come. I believe Terry is correct in pointing out you have too much ink. I use about a pea size of ink, spread well - and use a light touch.

Chuck

[GG]

Not to be a wet-blanket, but isn't there a risk that if this technique was perfected by us here, that some badguy could use it for stamping false dates on stuff?  For example "instant date-matched 302 from D-Day" or something? 

Is there anything we might want to do by way of safeguards against that risk?

For example I see slightly different fonts in use in a few different places; should we build up a reference page of the correct fonts so potential buyers can check?  Should there be an ethical convention against re-dating phones with dates other than the correct ones?  Can we find some way to handle reports of re-dated phones sold as originals?  Or am I mistaken, or something else?

[paul-f]

Good luck!

These kits have been available for quite a long time, and I'm sure have been used as you describe.

How different is this from any other restoration technique?  How many of us have applied new (repro) decals to refinished subsets or AE50s?

As we know, there are guys out there that have made great repro parts for potbellies, wood sets including vanities and even constructed complete repros from scratch.  It's often a challenge to tell the repro from the original.

At least with this technique, there are several hurdles:

• Must have the lettering kit and supplies
• Must develop the skill level to make the stamping look good

As buyers, we need to learn enough about the internal components of our purchases to know when the markeings match the components and we're getting the real thing.

Of course, even on 500s, we've seen examples of early 1950s sets that still have original stampings, but have had the leather feet replaced with round plastic feet, etc. etc.

Also, the markings on 500A, 500B, 500J and 500K sets were often applied in the refurb shops, and don't have the precision of factory applied marks.  It would be a challenge for even the best of us to spot a "modern repro" stamping.

Buyer Beware!

[Greg G.]

Not to be a wet-blanket, but isn't there a risk that if this technique was perfected by us here, that some badguy could use it for stamping false dates on stuff?  For example "instant date-matched 302 from D-Day" or something? 

Is there anything we might want to do by way of safeguards against that risk?

For example I see slightly different fonts in use in a few different places; should we build up a reference page of the correct fonts so potential buyers can check?  Should there be an ethical convention against re-dating phones with dates other than the correct ones?  Can we find some way to handle reports of re-dated phones sold as originals?  Or am I mistaken, or something else?

I'll post a picture of the result I settled for, but it's still very distinguishable from the real thing, and I debated with myself if it was really better than what I had.  My previous attempt was using one of those numeric/symbol wheels intended for marking prices.  The vintage stamp kit I have did not have the exact size or style of font, and there is no "/" to use in the date.  As others stated, it takes a LOT of practice to get it looking even half-way decent, more than I cared to fuss with (and I fussed with it for the better part of the day).  I doubt a forger would really think it's worth the effort. Since I intend to keep the phone, I only did it for my own personal needs.