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N-717AHR questions...

Started by Lupo, January 16, 2013, 10:24:56 PM

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Lupo

Hello All,

Thanks for the replies.  With regards to DSK's question; yes there are only 2 wires to the dial.  I tried your circuit and there was no change in the function (or non function) of the phone.  Still got a dial tone but nothing else and all the phones in the house were out of service.

G-Man, I will be on the lookout for your reply.  A simple strapping option would be excellent.  I don't want to put the guts of a 500 in there, it looks too nice as is.

DavePEI

#16
Quote from: Lupo on February 11, 2013, 08:48:41 PM
Hello All,

Thanks for the replies.  With regards to DSK's question; yes there are only 2 wires to the dial.  I tried your circuit and there was no change in the function (or non function) of the phone.  Still got a dial tone but nothing else and all the phones in the house were out of service.

G-Man, I will be on the lookout for your reply.  A simple strapping option would be excellent.  I don't want to put the guts of a 500 in there, it looks too nice as is.

Question. Have you disconnected the bell yet? If you don't at least temporarily, it will continue to draw down your line. Eventually, you will need to put a capacitor in series with it to keep it from pulling down the line, but for now, just to check the phone and see if it will work, you will need to remove it from the line otherwise, it will take all the phones on the line out of service.

Dave
The Telephone Museum of Prince Edward Island:
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Free Admission - Call (902) 651-2762 to arrange a visit!
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dsk

#17
Quote from: Lupo on February 11, 2013, 08:48:41 PM
Hello All,

Thanks for the replies.  With regards to DSK's question; yes there are only 2 wires to the dial.  I tried your circuit and there was no change in the function (or non function) of the phone.  Still got a dial tone but nothing else and all the phones in the house were out of service.

G-Man, I will be on the lookout for your reply.  A simple strapping option would be excellent.  I don't want to put the guts of a 500 in there, it looks too nice as is.


I never said this would be easy, but something s not right according to the circuit diagram.

I took your? diagram and changed some colors to better explain the solution, I was sure it would work, so now I will ask you to doe some measuring.

Following the yellow marked wire from GND trough the hook switch, trough the ringer.  Putting an ohm meter between the middle point of the ringer, and the GND terminal, you should have a low ohms reading in off hook position, and full isolation (unlimited ohms) in on hook position.

Without a meter you could test this by only connecting the telephone line between GND and Line 2 No extra capacitor, nothing to line 1
The DC current will mainly follow the red marked wire between ringer and Line 2 terminal.

In on hook position the other telephones on the line should work as normal. If not, the Y contacts (hook sw) and the yellow lines are not wired according to diagram. In of hook position, you may hear a weak dial tone, and other rotary phones should not be able to break dial tone.

Putting a condenser between Line 1 terminal, and GND should not do anything to the DC path, since the condenser blocks DC. The sound should be normally strong.

dsk

Lupo

Good news!  It works!  100%

The problem yesterday was with the hook.  It has two positions, all the way up and halfway.  It was stuck halfway which causes all kinds of havoc.  So I loosened the hook latch a bit and now it works freely, but still latches halfway on hangup and I have to push a tab that's attached to it.  There is also a push button below the hook that seems to do the same thing (make it act like its halfway).

I don't mind having the battery in at all but it would be good to get rid of it if posible (without resorting to a wall wart).

Thanks everybody!

G-Man

Quote from: Lupo on February 12, 2013, 08:39:45 PM
Good news!  It works!  100%

The problem yesterday was with the hook.  It has two positions, all the way up and halfway.  It was stuck halfway which causes all kinds of havoc.  So I loosened the hook latch a bit and now it works freely, but still latches halfway on hangup and I have to push a tab that's attached to it.  There is also a push button below the hook that seems to do the same thing (make it act like its halfway).

I don't mind having the battery in at all but it would be good to get rid of it if posible (without resorting to a wall wart).

Thanks everybody!

Yes, this is stated in the note on the wiring diagram.

A two-step switch-hook is intended for use on party-lines so a subscriber can ascertain whether  the line is already in use, and if so, not to interfere with an on-going conversation or destroy dial pulses if a call is being made.

Switch Hook Contacts "X" and "Y" Not To Make Until Latch Is Operated






dsk

Quote from: Lupo on February 12, 2013, 08:39:45 PM
Good news!  It works!  100%

The problem yesterday was with the hook.  It has two positions, all the way up and halfway.  It was stuck halfway which causes all kinds of havoc.  So I loosened the hook latch a bit and now it works freely, but still latches halfway on hangup and I have to push a tab that's attached to it.  There is also a push button below the hook that seems to do the same thing (make it act like its halfway).

I don't mind having the battery in at all but it would be good to get rid of it if possible (without resorting to a wall wart).

Thanks everybody!
:)
Congratulations!
Regarding the battery circuit, this will not be possible to fix without some internal rewiring.  On the other hand if you use 2x D size alkaline batteries, and protect the surroundings from eventually battery leakage, my guess is a battery lifetime of more than 1 year, maybe as much as 5 years. More related to aging than the current consumption.

dsk

dsk

I have been working with the wiring diagram, and this makes it more easy to understand for me.

By the way I wonder about the ringer coils resistance. My guess is 2 equal coils of 500 ohms.

dsk