425E Wiring Help

[fender_bender289]

I searched for a wiring diagram for thew 425E in the search, and Ive seen people referencing them, but I can't find one or a link to one.

Help?

[Dan/Panther]

Fender bender;
Is that in reference to your driving skills or do you play guitar ?
We have a technical section that has several 425 diagrams for wiring. Check it out to see if any match your phone. if not a photo will be a big help.
D/P

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=2827.0

[Phonesrfun]

The 425 E uses the same terminals as the 425B.

Here is a link to the diagram in the TCI document library.

Holler if this does not answer your question.

[fender_bender289]

Fender bender;
Is that in reference to your driving skills or do you play guitar ?
We have a technical section that has several 425 diagrams for wiring. Check it out to see if any match your phone. if not a photo will be a big help.
D/P

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=2827.0

It's a reference to my guitar skills, thankfully.

yes, that diagram helped greatly, thanks.

This is the phone that I am working on (picture), the date on the 425 says 1967, so it's not terribly old. I am redoing it for my dad, who pulled it out of a house he was working on, and hopefully he'll hang it up in his shop.

I also attached a picture of the 425 wired up, the handset and dial are not connected right now, I'm restoring and painting them right now. The main problem I am going to have is connecting the new line, I guess the original was ripped out when they took the phone off the wall. If you see anything that looks wrong with the wiring of whats left connected, let me know.

I'm currently working for my degree in engineering, so I don't think I should have too much trouble getting this done, but Ill take advice from the more experienced whenever I can. 

Thanks!

[Phonesrfun]

If you want the phone to ring when you get it hooked up, you will need to move the black ringer wire from the G terminal on the network to L1.  The line cord will connect to L1 and L2.

The way it is wired is a holdover from the good old days.

[fender_bender289]

Thanks Phonesrfun, I got that black wire moved over, and I have a phone cord stripped and down to the two bare wires on one end, and the modular connection on the other end. I then attached a couple of connectors, similar to the original ones on the network, to the ends of the bare wires.

I'm guessing that it matters which wire I connect to L1 and L2... ?

[Dennis Markham]

Fender.........welcome to the forum!

Ideally you'd want to connect the green line cord (mounting cord) wire to L1 along with the black ringer wire and the green switch wire.  The red lead would connect to L2.  But reversing them won't hurt anything today because polarity is not an issue like it once was with the phones.

[fender_bender289]

Fender.........welcome to the forum!

Ideally you'd want to connect the green line cord (mounting cord) wire to L1 along with the black ringer wire and the green switch wire.  The red lead would connect to L2.  But reversing them won't hurt anything today because polarity is not an issue like it once was with the phones.

Thanks Dennis, its good to be here!

So, I just put it all back together to test it all out, make sure it all works good before I spend all this time on it.

I hooked it up to the wall, and I get a dial tone, and when I call it with my cell phone, I can answer it, but it doesn't ring. I also cant seem to get the mic to work. Im going to check all my connections and wires for shorts, and then try again.

Any advice?

[fender_bender289]

A little update on the situation.

The wiring is still the same as above, except for the black wire that I moved to L1.

The handset is connected as follows:

Black: RR
Red: R
White: R
White: GN

I'm also pretty sure I have the C2-A ringer, if that helps at all.

[fender_bender289]

Alright, I rewired everything.

The audio in and out works just fine now, but still no ringer.

The Ringer is wired as follows right now:

red/white: A

White: K

Black: L1

Red: L2

[Phonesrfun]

Alright, I rewired everything.

The audio in and out works just fine now, but still no ringer.

The Ringer is wired as follows right now:

red/white: A

White: K

Black: L1

Red: L2

Does it do anything at all, such as vibrate?  Did you check to see if the volume lever is set to silence the ringer?  Try it with the ringer volume lever in different positions.  The way it is wired is correct. 

Check that before going forward with any other checks.

[fender_bender289]

No vibration, nothing. Absolutely no movement whatsoever.

Where do I go from here?

I noticed that the leads on the ringer have some corrosion, should I clean them with a wire brush, re solder the connections, or just leave them?

[Phonesrfun]

Do you have an ohm meter or a DVM?  If so, you can check for continuity.  A little corrosion probably would not keep it from ringing, but I would check the continuity of the coils first.

Maybe send a good close-up picture of the ringer too.

By the way, the black handset wire does not go to RR.  It should go to B which is the center terminal on the back side of the network.  The dial should connect to F and RR.

That wiring problem could cause the ringer not to function.

I think I neglected to post the TCI diagram in a previous post, so here it is agian.

http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_details&gid=1654&Itemid=27


There are two coils in the C2 and the C4 ringers.  The two ringers are identical, except that the C4A is a later model than the C2A.  There should be continuity between Slate and black, and also between Slate/Red and Red.

You had identified the slate color as white in an earlier post, but slate is what it is supposed to be.  Actually, in most cases it is a yucky off white faded color.

[fender_bender289]

Phonesrfun,

thanks for the info, I moved the black wire, and it didn't fix the ringer, but it did make the audio more clear from the mic.

here are a couple of pictures of the ringer

EDIT: I'm working on finding a way to check the continuity right now... I blew my fluke meter a while back. So im working on a more... unproffesional solution.

[Phonesrfun]

I don't see anything out of place from the photos you sent.  If the problem is not mechanical, I am thinking that it has to be either of the two ringer coils or the capacitor that is in the network between connections A and K causing the problem.

The ringer coil is split into two windings, and the series capacitor is placed in series between the coils, with one side of one coil going to one side of the line, and the other side of the other coil going to the other side of the line.

If either coil is open, or if the capacitor is bad (open) then the ringer will not work.  If you determine that the ringer has an open coil, then replacing the ringer is the easiest and cheapest route to go.  If the capacitor is bad, a 0.5 mF 250 volt cap from Radio Shack is what you would need, and just wire it between the slate and slate/red wires that normally go to terminals A and K on the network.