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1940 we 302 no dial tone (FIXED!)

Started by Dave Beck, January 31, 2014, 01:50:48 PM

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Dave Beck

well I just tried to call the phone to see if it would still ring and transmit but when I used my cell the house phone did not ring but went straight to my answering machine, we have att uverse. I am getting frustrated and will probably send it off to someone to fix for me.
Dave

Contempra

#16
On your network, I see that the green wire is on L2 and on a file that I have the green wire is on L1 and the red wire is on L2

Interchange the 2 wires....



poplar1

Quote from: Dave Beck on January 31, 2014, 05:44:57 PM
well I just tried to call the phone to see if it would still ring and transmit but when I used my cell the house phone did not ring but went straight to my answering machine, we have att uverse. I am getting frustrated and will probably send it off to someone to fix for me.
Dave

It's going to be busy as long as the handset wires are connected directly to L1 and L2.
Please don't give up. We already know it's not the dial or the hookswitch, and you said the ringer and transmitter were working before we started moving wires. I'm just trying to figure out if it's the cord that may be bad. Sometimes the spade lugs aren't crimped on well.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

tallguy58

Geez Dave..don't give up that easily.

If we had'a done that, we'd all be speaking German right now.

Don't fret...WE HAVE THE SOLUTION.
Cheers........Bill

Contempra


Dave Beck

LOL...guys thanks so much for the help. I tried switching the line wires still no luck.

As long as you guys don't give up nether will I....

even though Beck is a German name and is my last name I don't spreken d' Dutch

Dave Beck

Harry,
I am located in central western Oklahoma. Elk City, Oklahoma.

tallguy58

I still say a bum receiver.  Make sure you pry up those contacts in the handset like poplar said.
Cheers........Bill

Dave Beck

#23
Here is something new I just checked and may help you wizards out some. I checked the line voltage on the red and green wires coming into the phone unhooked voltage was 46 volts. When I hooked them up to the network I only read 2.8 volts should the voltage drop that much or any at all when hooked to the network? Appears I have a short or bad draw somewhere.
Dave

Doug Rose

Was this a working phone before the refurb. Did you replace the receiver module? Can you get DT directly to the handset putting the Line cord connections on the handset connections? I f not, remove the handset connections from the coil and dial and connect directly to the handset.

Whenever you cannot hear, first thing is to swap out the receiver module. Walk way if you are frustrated and try again in the morning. It will work...Doug
Kidphone

Dave Beck

Doug, I have changed out receiver and ohmed the headset wires. no luck

poplar1

#26
1.Check for continuity between the receiver contact springs at the top of the handset and the W and R terminals near the cord entrance at the bottom of the handset. (There are  a red and a white jumper wire, if the handle is hollow. On older handsets, you won't see the wires because they are embedded in the Bakelite.)

2a. Take out the receiver unit and measure across the contacts on the back of it. It should be approx. 25 ohms DC resistance. Also, you should hear a click in the receiver when you connect the test leads.

2b. If it's good there, reinstall the receiver; then check  the resistance at the W and R terminals with only the receiver wires connected there along with your test leads (i.e., without the cord going from the handset to the phone).

2c. Then after connecting the cord, check the resistance at the other end of the cord (again, with it not connected inside the phone base.)

2d. If you get 25 ohms at each test point, then the only thing left is the 101A induction coil.

3. With all the wires removed from the induction coil, you should measure:

L1-R  (Primary)     14 ohms  22 ohms
GN-C  (Secondary) 9 ohms  19 ohms
R-GN  (Tertiary) 0.38 ohms  75 ohms

Ref: Ralph O. Meyer, Old Time Telephones, 2nd Edition, pp. 29, 126.

EDIT: Corrected values for the 3 windings
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

poplar1

Quote from: Dave Beck on January 31, 2014, 05:21:26 PM
tried putting white and red to line still no dial tone, that should tell me it is in the receiver correct?
Dave

Sorry, I missed this reply when you sent two back to back. Yes, that tells you it is either the receiver or the cord or something in between (contact springs, wires connecting the W and R terminals to the contact springs).
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Dave Beck

Here is what I found this morning after following Poplar 1 suggestions.
The receiver was not making correct contact but was shorted by the prongs being too high. I pushed them down and got the correct reading of 25 ohms actually 28

Next I hooked the phone back up to measure the line voltage again. It was till bad unhooked 45 volts hooked up it dropped to 2.8 volts.

I then removed all wires from the induction coil and got these readings
L1-R 27 ohms
GN-C 24 ohms
R-GN 87 ohms

sounds like I may have a bad induction coil. Could the receiver leads being shorted damaged the coil?
Thanks again everyone for the help.


Quote from: poplar1 on January 31, 2014, 09:23:56 PM
1.Check for continuity between the receiver contact springs at the top of the handset and the W and R terminals near the cord entrance at the bottom of the handset. (There are  a red and a white jumper wire, if the handle is hollow. On older handsets, you won't see the wires because they are embedded in the Bakelite.)

2a. Take out the receiver unit and measure across the contacts on the back of it. It should be approx. 25 ohms DC resistance. Also, you should hear a click in the receiver when you connect the test leads.

2b. If it's good there, reinstall the receiver; then check  the resistance at the W and R terminals with only the receiver wires connected there along with your test leads (i.e., without the cord going from the handset to the phone).

2c. Then after connecting the cord, check the resistance at the other end of the cord (again, with it not connected inside the phone base.)

2d. If you get 25 ohms at each test point, then the only thing left is the 101A induction coil.

3. With all the wires removed from the induction coil, you should measure:

L1-R  (Primary)     14 ohms
GN-C  (Secondary)  9 ohms
R-GN  (Tertiary)    0.38 ohms.

Ref: Ralph O. Meyer, Old Time Telephones, 2nd Edition, pp. 29, 126.

tallguy58

Greg recently had a thread on testing old timey coils and this is what he had:

101A coil

22 ohms between L1 and R
19 ohms GN and C
75 ohms between GN-R


I've tested my 101's with these readings and they are right on. And the phones work.
Cheers........Bill