"The phone is a remarkably complex, simple device, and very rarely ever needs repairs, once you fix them." - Dan/Panther
Started by DavePEI, July 15, 2014, 02:30:49 PM
Quote from: unbeldi on July 16, 2014, 10:00:07 AMFor comparison, here is a picture of a restored version of David's magneto switchboard. I took this picture at the 2013 Lancaster show. David's board matches it perfectly, only his is more barn-fresh, unlike this restored version.
Quote from: unbeldi on July 16, 2014, 11:57:28 AMThere is some kind of designation stamped into the edge of the wood panel in the inside view. It may indicate the model number, or not. Starts with 5 in any case.That brings up another observation, there does appear to be a 101-type induction coil further down inside the unit at the end of that thick harness. Likely that is a later addition for the operator console. Perhaps David can shine some light on that, and see if it is a 101 or a 104, who made it (WE or NE), and what its date is.
Quote from: DavePEI on July 16, 2014, 03:24:42 PMUpdate: I just had a look at the unreduced photo of the board I took yesterday, and on another photo I didn't use, it shows what I think is the full number (to be verified latet). It is either 52 or 5.1 as in the photo below... This photo shows a little bit further to the right of the other.Dave
Quote from: unbeldi on July 17, 2014, 03:06:03 PMQuote from: DavePEI on July 16, 2014, 03:24:42 PMHow did you arrive at 52 as a possibility? Perhaps this image is again too low in resolution....In fact I know it is, because there is already too much information loss for image enhancements. It's only 72dpi.Don't forget, I have the un reduced photo here at full resolution. But, it won't help you as I said, it is either 5.1 with the ) looking like an o, or 521 with only the lower portion of the 2 showing. If it was a 2, the punch was on an angle so didn't cut the upper portion, but there are vestiges which look as though it could have been a 2. I had another look at it today with a high powered magnifying glass and I stick with that. The only one questionable at all is the "o" or "20".The one thing I did discover today is that the glue isn't as bad as I had previously thought. There are 3 seams which have come undone, but I should be able to re-glue them tomorrow without a lot of trouble. I picked up a piece of birch plywood to make a temporary lid for it until I find a piece of hardwood to do it. It was going to cost me $100 to get a piece joined with biscuits large enough from hardwood. So hopefully this will do well enough to serve for the time being. Hopefully I can find a piece off some old furniture in a yard sale this summer to make the final top.The ply was only $5. Birch plywood takes a wonderful finish - my desk here is made of stained and varnished birch plywood, and back when we were selling some of my parent's antique furniture, a lady asked me how much I wanted for the "lovely antique desk" Another advantage of my using it is I can use it to get the holes in the correct position and then I can use it as a template for the final top. I am thinking of dropping cut nails in the old screw holes to mark the correct position of the screw holes so that the new top will screw into the existing holes.I did drop the front today, but there wasn't have time to take photos (I had the camera over there, but the memory card was in this house) and I had to leave direct from there for the lumber store. I will vacuum the inside and post a photo of it tomorrow.Ny the way, the overall dimensions of the top and bottom of the board are 19.5 x 17 inches. I didn't measure the height as I was in a rush to get to the hardware store.Dave
Quote from: DavePEI on July 16, 2014, 03:24:42 PMHow did you arrive at 52 as a possibility? Perhaps this image is again too low in resolution....In fact I know it is, because there is already too much information loss for image enhancements. It's only 72dpi.
Quote from: unbeldi on July 18, 2014, 11:05:43 AMI think I have to modify my observation about the missing resistor on the 104A coil. I think this is an earlier version which had the extra A-terminal resistance implemented in the coil by means of a non-inductive winding. This can be seen by the fact that the A-terminal actually has a lead going into the coil. The compensation is between A and C. In this application it therefore seems wrong that the A-terminal would have the wire connected and not C.It is also interesting to note that the wires terminated on the 101A do not have spade lugs, but are bare wires. Perhaps the unit was upgraded from a hardwired 113 coil?I am wondering now who made this board. The 104A coil appears to me made by Western Electric, not NE. But if the coil was an upgrade, could someone have used WE parts?Hmm, is a four-conductor mounting cord enough to connect an LB-AST operator instrument to this switchboard?