Need a copy of AE circuit diagram D-53688 for SN-4020 AE40 & wiring inquiry

[unbeldi]

A ringing bridge always has to have the condenser and the ringer in series across the line.


    L1———————||——————O^O———————L2

                     Condenser          Ringer


So, no it would not be ok to have a lead to the condenser AND to the ringer to terminal L1.

In this case of the AE40, there is a switch between  the condenser and the ringer to cut it off when going off-hook. This improves somewhat the audio frequency response of the telephone set when using low-impedance ringers.

So,

L1———————||—————X—————O^O———————L2

                  Condenser     switch         Ringer

[poplar1]

No, connecting the ringer to L1 and L2 means the ringer will be connected directly to the line, rather than in series with the capacitor (condenser). This will busy out your line.

Are you using a Straight line ringer with the wires soldered to the ringer coils?
Or do you have the ringer with screw terminals?

[RotoTech99]

Dear poplar1:

My ringer leads have spades on both ends. It is the D-56545G 30 cycle one presently with screws.

I plan to change to a straight line ringer...I haven't decided whether to use the high impedance D-56515A, (which has soldered leads) or the low impedance biased ringer, D-56542A (with screw terminals)

Right now, my AE40 has has the D-56545G 30 cycle ringer

BTW: I can add screws to terminals 4 and 5, but I am no good with soldering, so any changes I can make by moving a spade lead or adding a jumper would be best for me..

[poplar1]

Where does the wire that is soldered to the outside hookswitch contact (of 3) go?

In the old diagram, it is white and soldered to the hookswitch on one end, and has a spade tip to connect to the ringer terminal.

In the new diagram, it is black-white and is soldered to the hookswitch on one end, and has a spade tip to terminal 5. The ringer has wires soldered to the coils, and these wires connect to 4 terminal 5 and L2.
(The capacitor connects to L1 and 4.)

In neither scenario do both ringer wires have spade tips on both ends!

[RotoTech99]

On the ringer in my phone, BOTH RINGER LEADS have spade lugs on them.  I TRACED THEM DOWN MYSELF

The condenser is connected to the middle contact of the 3 contact hookswitch set on the LEFT SIDE of my photo. The other condenser lead is at L1.

aS TO THE OTHER LEADS you mentioned, I cannot tell due to the color fade of the wire jackets.

[poplar1]

Again, if you use the low impedance ringer, you would just swap out the ringer and reconnect the spade tip leads (the white one soldered on the hookswitch and the green one with spade tip on L2) to the ringer terminals.

If you are using the high impedance ringer (with soldered leads) IN AN OLDER PHONE, you would connect it to L2 and to the white spade-tipped lead from the hookswitch ON A SPARE TERMINAL (5, 4, or G)...doesn't matter so long as you are rerouting the white wire that is in the harness going to the base so that it can connect to the ringer lead of the new style ringer (soldered leads). These two wires (white from hookswitch and high impedance ringer lead that isn't on L2) just have to be connected together somehow. I'd use 5.

[poplar1]

On the ringer in my phone, BOTH RINGER LEADS have spade lugs on them.  I TRACED THEM DOWN MYSELF

OK, not like either diagram.

The condenser is connected to the middle contact of the 3 contact hookswitch set on the LEFT SIDE of my photo

But where does the outer contact of the hookswitch connect to?

aS TO THE OTHER LEADS you mentioned, I cannot tell due to the color fade of the wire jackets.

[poplar1]

Borrowing Unbeldi's diagram:

                                      middle contact          outer contact
L1———————||————--------------------—X———-----------------*——O^O———————L2

                  Condenser                             switch                                   Ringer


The * indicates the connection you need to make between the outer hookswitch contact and the ringer wire.

[RotoTech99]

I think one of the ringer leads is white; it has SPADES ON BOTH ENDS (See attached pic), Is that the one you mean?

If not, please send photo identifying it.

The wires are faded in my AE 40, and I cannot readily identify it.

I am also having trouble understanding your diagrams, please explain them better.

[poplar1]

Can you trace the wire (regardless of color) that is connected to the outer contact of the hookswitch? Where does it go?  I don't have access to a camera or an AE 40 right now.

You can also just connect any 0.7 to 1.0 capacitor in series with the ringer without going through the hookswitch at all.

L1-------------||----------------O^O-------------L2
               capacitor              ringer

[poplar1]

I thought you had said earlier that the photo showing the condenser connecting to the 2-contact part of the hookswitch was incorrect. Yet here the latest photo still shows, according to the arrows and white printed word,  the condenser going to that part of the hookswitch. I don't understand this since that part of the hookswitch is just for the talking circuit.

Now, since one end of the condenser is soldered to L1, you could temporarily disconnect the two existing wires on the ringer end. Then run two new temporary wires from the ringer terminals: one wire to L2 and the other to the condenser (or to a new condenser). Not to the side of the condenser that is going to L1, but to the opposite side of the condenser.

This would bypass the hookswitch long enough to test the ringer.

[RotoTech99]

Which one are you calling the one on the outer contact, please?

On the 2nd set of hook contacts, the last wire appears to be orange. coming from the induction  On the  first set, the last contact wire goes to the resistor, the other appears to go to the dial. the green condenser lead goes to the 2nd center contact of the first hookswitch set on the left in my photo, and the "red" (?) condenser lead to L1.

I think one ringer wire is white, and one is black. I know one goes to L2, but the white one is what is throwing me off as to where it goes as there are no screws on terminals 4 and 5, and no type of lead soldered there.

I am unable to differentiate the other wires.  I can tell you there is no white wire coming from the hookswitch to the ringer in my set.

As I was saying it would help me more to see a set of the same configuration, but with the straight-line ringer in place, and the upper housing turned where I can follow the ringers' leads. NOTE: It would be a screw terminal equipped D-56542A (the big coil biased st.-line ringer), not the soldered leda one.

Thank you,
RotoTech99

[unbeldi]

The diagram shows the hook switch contacts exactly as they are in the physical piece part.  It even shows the curved end of the actuated contact blade as it really is.  So simply follow the diagram, it is precisely what you need, better than any picture, since it has the color coding listed.

In your latest picture you still have the wrong leads from the switch connected to the dial.  Take the top two wires off the dial.
And take one of the ringer wires off L2.  It doesn't make any difference which one, or what the colors are, there are only two and a frequency ringer does not have a polarity issue.

The left-hand switch has three contacts with a soldered wire each.  The center contact/solder joint is at the top, the outer ones are left and right.  The left one should go to the ringer or connect to the lead that comes from the ringer, the one you took off L2.  It appears it is going to the dial, but I can't be sure from the picture.

The right-hand switch goes to the dial (top contact) and to L1.

[RotoTech99]

There is a "jumper" lead from the last contact of the first set of hook contact; It connects to a resistor on the hookswitch pileup. The other leads; the BLACK from the INDUCTION COIL, and BLACK/WHITE from the hookswitch are where they should be, according to the schematic.

My green condenser lead popped off of where it was on the hook's first set of contacts at the middle contact, so I put a lug on that and added a screw to (4), then connected it at (4).

So, if I move the WHITE/BLACK ringer lead to (4) where the green condenser lead is, will that do? It won't be across the line connections at (L-1) and (L-2)
or the condenser lead at (L-1).

There is no other connection at (4) aside from the green condenser lead now; Once I add the BLACK/WHITE ringer lead, only those connections will be there.

"that would appear to be more sensible to me."

[RotoTech99]

 Dear Forum:

Noting the changes I had to make, I am also planning to put a  WE M1A, ITT 151/153 or the equivalent of these i as my ringer...

I believe the 1mF condenser should allow plenty of power to ring it.

In the meantime, I would still appreciate any advice and feedback to the latest information revisions, and changes to my set I have posted.

The last change to my set was:  The green condenser lead "popping off" its earlier connection which I added a spade lug to and put it on Term.4, and storing the
black/white ringer lead after removing it from L2.

Thank you, and keep the advice coming,
RotoTech99