Kellogg 900 Masterphone Wiring Question

[cloyd]

Hello all!  I need help interpreting the wiring schematic for my Kellogg Pyramid phone.  It didn’t ring, no dial tone, no dialing etc. but I could here some soft static.  I have included pictures and explanations as well as a list of the current wiring.

If someone would be so kind as to look over this information and let me know what is right and what is wrong.  Also, please educate me on what the parts are called that I have numbered in the diagram.  I am also removing the buzzer and replacing it with a ringer.

I have tried to look at photos from online but the wiring just isn’t clear enough and the Kellogg diagrams are very cryptic to me.
Thank you,
Tina Loyd

Handset to Hookswitch (switchhook?)
   Red to RD
   Green to GN
   Yellow to Y

#1 out
   top right             Blk/Orange wire    to hookswitch YL
   bottom right    Blk wire               to hookswitch GN
   top left            Blk/Orange       to (#2) C1
   bottom left    Blk wire               to (#2) C3

Hookswitch out
   GN      Green/White wire    to (#3) 53
   BR      Brown wire       to (#3) 2
   YL      Tan? wire       to (#2) L2

Buzzer:  removing to replace with a ringer
         Blk wire      to (#2) L1
         Blk wire      to (#2) L2

110A Ringer
   right wire   Blk wire      to (#2) L1
        left wire   Blk wire      to (#2) L2
        does it matter which wire (left & right) goes to which terminal?

[NorthernElectric]

While you're waiting for suggestions from the experts, why not disconnect that buzzer since you are planning on replacing it with a ringer anyway?  From the look of the wires, it looks like a later vintage add-on and it's connect across your line.  Do you know if the phone ever worked with that connected like that?  Re. the reversed handset wires; can you confirm that the other ends are connected correctly inside the handset?

[G-Man]

The first thing you should check is to make sure that the conductors for the handset cord are properly connected on the handset end. Compare it with the drawing below and please report back with your findings.
 
Like NorthernElectric I believe the buzzer, based upon the black pic wires and small idc spade-lugs and limited space is a GB8X high-voltage buzzer designed to use the dial mounting screw and operate on ringing voltage and was commonly used in telephone sets for intercom or line signaling by means of ringing current. Though doubtful that it is causing harm, it still wouldn’t hurt to temporarily disconnect it.

[G-Man]

Scratch my previous response. I failed to fully read the symptoms in the original post which states that it does not dial. I did not realize it was a dial telephone and since one schematic is for a manual set then and the other shows it connected to a subscriber set, it does not apply to this instrument so at this point it is unknown just what we are dealing with. There is also a possibility that it is an l.b. set.

[NorthernElectric]

From what I can gather from this topic, if Tina's pyramid is one of these and has a dial it is probably an aftermarket add-on.  There may not be a published schematic for it that includes a dial.

[NorthernElectric]

Also, please educate me on what the parts are called that I have numbered in the diagram.

1.  Condenser aka capacitor
2. 'conn(ector) rack' according to a Kellogg schematic, aka terminal block, terminal strip, etc. 
3. and 4. Induction coil.

[G-Man]

Since you stated in your original comments that your problems included “no dialing etc.” we now know that you have a dial instrument. See if this wiring diagram is accurate and please report back to us.

[cloyd]

First off, I'm an idiot.  My Kellogg 900's do not have dials.  I don't know what I was thinking.  Sorry for the confusion.

The connections inside the handset: red to R, yellow to W and green to B.

What I gather from the responses about the buzzer is that the way it is connected, to L1 and L2, is wrong.  How would I connect the 110A ringer?

Thank you for helping me with this. 

Tina Loyd

[cloyd]

While you're waiting for suggestions from the experts, why not disconnect that buzzer since you are planning on replacing it with a ringer anyway?  From the look of the wires, it looks like a later vintage add-on and it's connect across your line.  Do you know if the phone ever worked with that connected like that?  Re. the reversed handset wires; can you confirm that the other ends are connected correctly inside the handset?

No, I don't know if it ever worked wired this way.

Tina

[NorthernElectric]

What I gather from the responses about the buzzer is that the way it is connected, to L1 and L2, is wrong.

Not so much that it is necessarily wrong, but all we can see is the wires so it is an unknown factor.  G-Man took a guess at what it might be and I interpreted his response such that if it was what he guessed the wiring might be correct.  My idea was more of a logical approach of troubleshooting by means of simplification.  Since you are planning on installing a ringer at some point the buzzer is somewhat superfluous and eliminating it will cross one thing off the list of possible causes.  So possibly G-Man was also thinking along those lines.

[cloyd]

I posted a reply with pictures to try to clarify my questions.  It has not appeared.  I am reposting, but if anyone knows what I am doing wrong, please let me know.
Thanks,
Tina

[G-Man]

The following wire colors of your handset cord  should be connected to the following terminals-
 

• Red - “R” (handset - common to Transmitter and Receiver) to “R” on hookswitch
• Green - “W” (handset - to other Receiver terminal) to “G” on hookswitch
• Yellow - “B” (handset - to other Transmitter terminal) to “Y” on hookswitch

This type of buzzer does not need to be connected through a capacitor but the bell will need one as is shown in the circuit.

Also, it bothers me that the buzzer never worked even though It was connected directly to “L1” and “L2” making me wonder if there is something wrong with the line-cord or connection at the other end.

 

[G-Man]

With the assumption that the rest of the wiring is correct, you should be able to connect one ringer lead to “C1” and the other to “L1” but you may want to concentrate on getting the telephone to work properly before delving into the ringer circuit.

[G-Man]

I think this is likely the most accurate wiring diagram to date for your telephone set

[cloyd]

OK!  This is great.  I will give it a try.  I have not seen that schematic before.  I will try to get the phone to work based on the information that I have now.  I was suspicious of the wiring and did not want to try to make it work on my own.
Tina Loyd