Author Topic: 50AL question  (Read 3658 times)

Offline Alex Wander

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #15 on: November 23, 2015, 10:18:02 PM »
Any suggestions on where to find these items?

Offline HarrySmith

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #16 on: November 24, 2015, 08:41:47 PM »
Most of those parts come up on eBay pretty frequently and for cheap if you are patient. The dial is another story, not plentiful and thereby a little expensive when they do come up!
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Offline WEBellSystemChristian

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #17 on: November 25, 2015, 10:07:12 AM »
Getting a #2 dial isn't exactly affordable-- several have shown up on ebay and ended up selling for close to $300!!

I would see absolutely nothing wrong with using the current #5 dial; it's perfect for the non-collector/purist, but still looks great on a candlestick!!
« Last Edit: November 25, 2015, 10:09:03 AM by WEBellSystemChristian »
Christian Petterson

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unbeldi

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #18 on: November 25, 2015, 10:34:54 AM »
Getting a #2 dial isn't exactly affordable-- several have shown up on ebay and ended up selling for close to $300!!

I would see absolutely nothing wrong with using the current #5 dial; it's perfect for the non-collector/purist, but still looks great on a candlestick!!

I couldn't agree more.  Sticks were routinely upgraded with better dials.  A new dial should be the last thing to worry about, and only purchased when the opportunity is right. Once in a while one can still find 2A dials under a hundred $$, but one has to be vigilant about spotting them.

Offline Sargeguy

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #19 on: November 25, 2015, 12:12:08 PM »
A 50-AL would not have a 5M dial.  The 50-AL would have been upgraded to a 151-AL and (possibly) given a 5H.  The 2AB or 2AA dials are not rare, although  they are sought after and can carry a premium.  The #2 dials have "Western Electric" and the patent dates stamped into the side, and the stamped fingerstop, so they look a lot nicer than a 5H.   I usually pay about $60-80 on eBay, although they often go for more, with good, complete examples selling for around $125-150 on a good day.  An un-notched one piece blank or "American Bell Telephone" marked cup should run about $10 or 15 on eBay or from a fellow collector.  The 50-AL wiring harness is another story, those are relatively uncommon and may require some asking around.  Still I would not expect to pay more than $30.  Replacement receiver cord and subset cord should be about $30 from eBAy or Oldphone works.  I recommend the rubber internal jackets with metal cord restraints. A 144AW receiver can be forund from $25-50, depending upon whether it has the AT&T marking around the edge of the cup. 
« Last Edit: November 25, 2015, 12:17:42 PM by Sargeguy »
Greg Sargeant
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unbeldi

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #20 on: November 25, 2015, 12:52:05 PM »
A 50-AL would not have a 5M dial.  The 50-AL would have been upgraded to a 151-AL and (possibly) given a 5H.

A 5M is identical to a 5H as far as the dialing unit, gear box, governor, contacts is concerned. It only was called a 5M for the different number plate (just black with with dots) and the added plastic bezel around it that was needed in a 5302 set (similar to a 500).  His number plate has already been changed to the 5H type, so the only remaining clue as to its history is the vermillion stamp.  Take some acetone and remove it, if you wish, and you won't know the difference.

Offline WEBellSystemChristian

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #21 on: November 25, 2015, 02:03:51 PM »
The point is (not trying to be offensive in any way) is that Alex wants his candlestick to look nice and work well, probably as a conversation piece.

He isn't a full-blown collector like us, so I doubt he would want to pay a lot of money for parts, nor would I think he would want to spend days on end watching eBay for any incredibly cheap 2AB dials to come along. To any average person, this candlestick would look completely factory if he just painted it black and added a black '70s subset. No one would criticize him for having a transmitter cup that doesn't have the correct writing on the back, nor would they notice the fingerstop is mounted to the inside of the dial instead of the outside.

Heck, if I had this, I would have it powdercoated and hook it up to any extra subset I have laying around, and use it, period. I wouldn't put more money into it that it's worth, especially if I'm using it.

I'll step down from Doug's soapbox now... ;D
Christian Petterson

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Offline Sargeguy

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #22 on: November 25, 2015, 09:15:01 PM »
Quote
What would getting it back to original condition entail? The more I think about it, the more interesting the prospect becomes!

Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
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Offline Sargeguy

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #23 on: November 26, 2015, 09:28:34 AM »
Here is a later wooden 295A subset that should work:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-telephone-wood-box-Western-Electric-1908-/161898249546?

It didn't get any bids at $50 the first time it went up for sale, and $50 is about the going rate for these.
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
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Offline Alex Wander

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #24 on: November 30, 2015, 09:08:43 PM »
Thanks Sargeguy! I just won the auction!

Offline cloyd

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #25 on: December 09, 2015, 01:54:28 PM »
The point is (not trying to be offensive in any way) is that Alex wants his candlestick to look nice and work well, probably as a conversation piece.

He isn't a full-blown collector like us, so I doubt he would want to pay a lot of money for parts, nor would I think he would want to spend days on end watching eBay for any incredibly cheap 2AB dials to come along. To any average person, this candlestick would look completely factory if he just painted it black and added a black '70s subset. No one would criticize him for having a transmitter cup that doesn't have the correct writing on the back, nor would they notice the fingerstop is mounted to the inside of the dial instead of the outside.

Heck, if I had this, I would have it powdercoated and hook it up to any extra subset I have laying around, and use it, period. I wouldn't put more money into it that it's worth, especially if I'm using it.

I'll step down from Doug's soapbox now... ;D

I am interested in getting an early WE candlestick but I would want it to work.  I have a 684BA subset laying around.  Would that work with a 50AL?  Or would something like this work?  http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-WORKING-OAK-WESTERN-ELECTRIC-SUBSET-FOR-CANDLESTICK-TELEPHONE-NR-/301817998157?hash=item4645c12b4d:g:7DQAAOSwsFpWSPhS
Thank you,
Tina Loyd
« Last Edit: December 09, 2015, 02:06:40 PM by cloyd »
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Offline poplar1

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Re: 50AL questi
« Reply #26 on: December 09, 2015, 03:25:54 PM »
Tina, the 212-type oak subset in the eBay auction appears to be missing the induction coil; as configured, it could be used only as a extension bell.

Since the 684-BA subset has the post-1930 anti-sidetone circuit, a 151-AL, which is also anti-side tone, would be preferable --  so far as working properly -- to the 50-AL or 51-AL, if you do decide to go with the 684-BA.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline Sargeguy

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #27 on: December 09, 2015, 03:55:42 PM »
That 212 has been re-purposed, it has some non-Western Electric parts on it.  I would shy away from it.  When looking for subsets for a 50-AL, choose later wooden subsets that have the Western Electric decals rather than stamped logo.  Preferably these would be painted black.  Better yet, find a 334 or 335 subset.  Other choices include a 634 or 684, but these are a little later and would be more appropriate for a 51-AL or 151-AL.
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409

Offline poplar1

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #28 on: December 09, 2015, 06:33:36 PM »
634A and 684A are appropriate for 151AL, but not for 51-AL or 50-AL.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline Sargeguy

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Re: 50AL question
« Reply #29 on: December 09, 2015, 07:54:59 PM »
I should have said 534 or 584!!!
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
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