Author Topic: WE 233 with 685A subset won't break dialtone  (Read 1260 times)

Offline Tim Mc

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Re: WE 233 with 685A subset won't break dialtone
« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2016, 11:31:54 PM »
Definite improvement.  I now have dial tone, and can dial out.  I bypassed the signal transmitter & capacitor.  Voice quality is OK since I also found and replaced a bad F1 element in the handset (looked like a cheap knockoff). 

The only(?) issue now is loud clicking when dialing and when going on-hook.  I don't think it's the dial contacts on the pileup or the pawl since I had the same issue with my 5H, which worked fine with the 101A hooked up.  Is there a way to suppress the clicks? 


Offline poplar1

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  • 102C-6 = "Old Brass" Hand Telephone Set
Re: WE 233 with 685A subset won't break dialtone
« Reply #16 on: June 05, 2016, 12:59:17 AM »
Make sure the dial cord is connected correctly on both ends, other than the red and black swap on the terminal block.
This phone is supposed to have a G-type handset, which has a varistor on the back of the receiver unit. That will help suppress voltage spikes (clicks).
However, if you are hearing dial pulses (a series of clicks corresponding to the digit dialed), or a pop in the receiver when hanging up slowly, then you may have something miswired.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline Tim Mc

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I've rewired the phone completely with the 685A, double-checked everything (bypassing the transmitter and electromagnet in the upper housing) and suspect that it's the F1 handset that's causing the loud dial pulses.  I wanted to hang the 233 in the kitchen this weekend and I don't have a spare G-type handset to swap out, so for now I've mounted a 101A and 195C where the coin relay should be located.  A dab of hot glue holds them into place.  The F1 handset makes it look older too.

I want to thank poplar1 for all the help!! - I've saved the notes and diagrams.  I'll keep my eyes out for a G-type handset and will save the subset for a rainy day when I add a ringer (or for a second payphone).  I also found poplar's notes from 2013 which came in handy.

For anyone looking to use a 101A coil, here are the connections I used.  The 195C only has two leads for the talk circuit (red & black) and no ringer leads.  A 195A can be used by taping off the slate and yellow leads.  I  have WE parts laying around from rebuilding a lot of 302s, so that's why I went with a 101A.

233 with 101A and 195C condenser:
Dial: (upper housing transfer contacts, top to bottom)
W - 1st transfer contact (W)
Y - 2nd transfer contact  (Y)
BB - 3rd transfer contact (BB)
R - 4th transfer contact (R)
BK - 5th transfer contact (BK)

Handset (F1):
W - W terminal on lower housing
R - R on 101A coil
BK - BKX terminal on lower housing

101A:
GN - GN terminal on lower housing (made jumper)
L2 - Y terminal on lower housing (made jumper)
L2 - Line cord (Red)
LI - Line cord (Green)
L1 - R terminal on lower housing (made jumper)
C - Red lead of 195C
R - Red lead of F1 handset

Lower housing:  Jumper BB and BBX.  (no other wires on BB or BBX)

195C
Black lead - BKX terminal on lower housing
Red lead - C terminal on 101A

The coin chute flap directs all coins to the vault, so now we have a convenient safe for loose change, as long as the kids don't find the keys. 
« Last Edit: June 05, 2016, 10:29:41 PM by Tim Mc »