Author Topic: Restoring a 233G that has some "issues" -- Been away for awhile and need some advice  (Read 1314 times)

Offline Shovelhead

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Hello all, have not posted in a couple of years here, the phone hobby had taken a back seat due to work, adult kids moving in and out, two grandchildren, one from each kid and now retirement. No new acquisitions but as time allows I'm getting back into it.

I acquired a coin chute from Ebay for my 233G which has pretty much laid dormant since I am down to one Dial Gizmo, lost one due to a lightning strike two doors down one morning that hit the outside junction box. Anyway, tonight I connected the chute and no dial tone.

Tested it with a TT phone, background hum only, no dial tone. Replaced the modular plug with another new one, same thing. Visual inspection of the wiring reveals nothing, have not done anything in the area that could have damaged the wiring. Only thing I can imagine is that we had Uverse, dropped it and went to Direct TV. Possibly the installer damaged that one circuit or disconnected it but for circumstances at the time of the two afformentioned adult children taking over the basement I never thought to check it. It's not a normal POTS line we are now on, I have to use a Dial Gizmo for the rotary phones to work so I think we have the same phone service type that Uverse is,only a guess though.

So, recommendations for a test set that will not break the bank so I can trace and chase, as it will probably be a use once and put away. Or anyone have a used one they want to sell?

I'm also posting a question on the WE Pay Phone forum if anyone wants to take a look at that too.

Thanks in advance.
[img]http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/stuffer]

Offline Shovelhead

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Hello again from a few year hiatus for me. As I explained in the General Forum just getting back into the hobby post retirement.

Anyway, I want to make my 233G a real functional pay phone. Have been reading the do it yourself coin controller instructions with the modification to the coin relay which I acquired a few years ago. My coin chute was hacked when the phone was modified , someone jammed a screwdriver into the electromagnet windings of the solenoid at the top of the coin chute. I just got one from Ebay, this one actually will hold one nickel until the second one is inserted than drops, better than the one that came with my phone would do.

Anyway, as I installed the chute my question is there a way that I can test the solenoid for operation? It's all wired in and I checked for continuity with a ohmmeter so I assume that until that solenoid is tripped the dial tone will not be enabled, am I right?
[img]http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/stuffer]

Offline Stan S

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Nope.

To test the electromagnet connect a standard 9V transistor radio battery to the 'A' and 'E' screws at the bottom of the coin track. The electromagnet should pull in. Deposit ONE nickel in the track. If the nickel falls through the track the 'first nickel hold' feature is defeated. That's what the electromagnet is suppose to do.

You first get a dial tone then the electromagnet will pull in. Not the other way around.

Stan S.

Offline Shovelhead

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Thank you Stan.

So, if the purpose of the electromagnet is for coin control there was no reason for the coil to have been destroyed when the phone was "civilianized". right?
[img]http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/stuffer]

Offline Stan S

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Exactly.
Possibly the value of the copper wire as salvage.
I can't think of any technical reason.
Stan S.

Offline Shovelhead

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Stan, I connected a 9v battery to the electromagnet, it clicks. It then dumps the first nickel. So far so good I suppose.

Whoever hacked the phone left the copper wire intact, they just forced a screwdriver into the coil breaking the windings. If they were intent on disabling it's function all they had to do was to either disconnect or clip either or both of the green wires.

So my challenge is to restore the phone back to the way it left WE except for the mods to the coin relay that will be necessary.

Thank you again Stan for your replies. I have to tackle the line repair in my basement next once I determine what test set I need to get.
[img]http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/stuffer]

Offline Stan S

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Quote
So my challenge is to restore the phone back to the way it left WE except for the mods to the coin relay that will be necessary.

Stop!
What mods to the coin relay?
Stan S.

Offline TelePlay

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    • . . . the times they been a'changing
This topic would be easier to understand with detailed pictures (about 3000 by 2000 pixels in size) of the inside showing what parts are or are  not there..



( and, thanks for giving me a chance to use one of my most favorite images found in the internet some time ago )
            John . . .

              

Offline RB

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That pic is too much John... :D

Offline Shovelhead

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Stop!
What mods to the coin relay?
Stan S.

The one described here: https://atcaonline.com/controller.html

I have not made any mods to it yet. Still in the reading, studying and deciding stage of what to use. Price is a consideration now as SS only goes so far but please I don't want to sound like I'm complaining or crying the blues, just that I have to be more conservative in what I do now. If I decide to go the more expensive route for a controller it can be done but it's not the "ooh shiny, get it now!" but budget for it down the road.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2017, 05:57:03 PM by TelePlay »
[img]http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/stuffer]

Offline Shovelhead

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This topic would be easier to understand with detailed pictures (about 3000 by 2000 pixels in size) of the inside showing what parts are or are  not there.


John,

Photo posting challenged here. The best I can describe it is that whoever had this phone before (I got it from Ebay) was never able to dial out on it. I replaced the solid strand 4 conductor , replace a physically damaged dial and had to jump L2 to C terminal on the 425A network that was "mounted" (term used loosely) in the coin vault compartment. At that point I could use it like an extension phone.

The earlier mentioned coin chute's electromagnet was "disconnected" by jamming a screwdriver into the windings. The coin trap, the trap lever and spring were missing, I acquired these pieces and replaced them in the hopper, they now seem to work. I also got a coin relay for it, at least the hopper was not destroyed when it was removed.

The coin vault door is the only thing that has been restored as of now, had it replated, that was a fifty dollar "ouch" about five or six years ago along with new upper and lower locks,those were both missing, the phone upper was held in place by a carriage bolt, the lower was also bolted, this time by a hex head bolt. I only paid $125 for it, listed on Ebay as working. Yep, working as a paper weight...
« Last Edit: December 05, 2017, 07:16:58 PM by TelePlay »
[img]http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/stuffer]

Offline TelePlay

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    • . . . the times they been a'changing
            John . . .

              

Offline Stan S

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Quote
The one described here: https://atcaonline.com/controller.html

That's what I was afraid you were referring to.

The major problem with the Internet is that things never seem to go away.
They keep coming back like a bad penny.

The purpose of that device was to simply ANIMATE the coin relay.
It wasn't to replicate the operation of a payphone.
The latest version of a REAL payphone controller is here:

     h ttps://tinyurl.com/dzlsbh   BAD LINK

Stan S.
===========================================

EDIT:  This is the link to the current controller

     https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Mini-Coin-Controller-For-Your-Antique-3-Slot-Payphone/302552909976
« Last Edit: December 05, 2017, 09:10:42 PM by TelePlay »

Offline Shovelhead

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Stan, is that your controller?
[img]http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/stuffer]

Offline Stan S

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I deny all and demand a blood test!

OK, guilty.
Stan S.