Author Topic: WE 151AL Candlestick Pops When Receiver Is Lifted or Replaced from Hook Switch  (Read 207 times)

Offline gands-antiques

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I have a WE 151AL candlestick that had a #6 dial when I got it but I decided to put a #4 dial in it. When the #4 dial was installed, there was a loud popping in the receiver when the dial finger plate returned to the normal rest position. I tweaked the heavy bar W on the dial like I had done in the past but the popping didn't stop. I checked for shorts everywhere and found none. (There was no popping when the #6 dial was installed).

I replaced the popping #4 dial with another #4 dial and the popping with the dial stopped, but now there is popping when receiver is lifted from the hook switch or replaced.

I installed a varistor in the receiver but the popping didn't stop. I swapped out the receiver with another one and the popping continued.

Next, I slid the switch hook up to check the contacts. I didn't see anything that looked out of place when lifting and replacing the hook switch.  I cleaned the contacts but the phone still has the popping.

Any assistance with the stopping the popping issue would sure be appreciated.

Thanks a lot,
Gary

Offline RB

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Here are a couple files I found here. Not your phone, but the same reasons.
Sorry for long post, can't upload docx files.
I have a loud CLICK when I depress the hook switch on my WE302.

If there is a click that indicates either:
(1) there is some DC through the receiver, or
(2) incorrect contact sequence in the cradle switch, or
(3) some resistance in the RD handset cord lead, or
(4) some other mis-wiring.

One possible reason for DC is in the receiver is leakage in the 2uF capacitor section connected by its RD and BK leads between 101A IND "C" and the BK dial terminal.  You should check for DC across the receiver with a DMM set to the 200mV DC scale.

A long handset cord or one with higher than normal resistance in the RD lead for some other reason will cause the voltage drop produced in the RD conductor as a result of transmitter current, to appear in series with the receiver, causing a click.  The more voltage drop the louder the click.  In the extreme case of RD being open the click will be very loud because all transmitter current will be passing through the receiver.

The GN & BR-BL cradle switch contact must close after YL & BR-YL when releasing the cradle buttons and long enough after for fluctuations in current in the line to have died down, and it must open before YL & BR-YL when depressing the buttons.  If they operate in the wrong sequence there will be a loud click.  If they operate almost simultaneously there may be a weak click.  If depressing and releasing the cradle switch buttons slowly produces no click but letting them pop up does the contacts are operating too close together in time.


Replaced the handset cord. Still have a loud click when depressing the hookswitch. Otherwise phone works fine.
But not when operating the dial? 

If that is the case there is no DC in the receiver circuit (as there should not be) and the HS contact sequence is wrong.  The GN & BR-BL contacts must open before the YL & YL-BR when depressing the buttons.  The sequence can be adjusted by bending the shortest thick stop spring located between the two contact springs.

If there are clicks from dial operation that means there is DC in the receiver and most likely there is a wiring error somewhere.  It's also possible the 2uF capacitor section appearing on the RD and BK capacitor leads is leaky or shorted.

 Put a DMM set to measure 0-200mA DC in series with either capacitor lead and check for current, which should be zero.  Then put it in series with the WH handset cord lead, which also should be zero.
When you depress the plungers, which hookswitch contacts open first: the contacts closest to the dial (green and brown-blue),
or those closest to the back of the housing (yellow and brown-yellow)?

One way to check for clicks is to remove the green hookswitch wire from GN on the 101A induction coil. You should not hear a loud click in the receiver while removing or reconnecting this green wire. (If you do hear a click, then adjusting the hookswitch contact sequence will *not* help!)
No dial clicks.

The handset contacts were all opening at the same time. That was my fault. When I got the phone, for whatever reason, the hookswitch was all twisted and I bent it back the best I could, not realizing about the timing.
I now have significantly less CLICK... it doesn't hurt my ear. The click "volume" is the same as all my other phones now.
As for the capacitor, is it common for those to eventually fail? I'll do the next test ASAP for the capacitor just to see what shows up.

Good!  Not common.  Under what conditions do you hear a faint click?  When there is silence after dialing a digit or with dial tone present?

It occurs at all times when depressing the hook switch, silence or with dial tone present. I have the same click with all my other phones: two more 302's and my 202.

Perhaps there is slight DC leakage.  It should be very faint or inaudible.  Measure the DC current through or voltage across the receivers of the phones which do this.

Loud pop
Normally it just involves moving the bottom (heavy bar--"W") downward toward the terminal strip on the back side of the dial.
on a 302, the timing of the W and BB contact is the most likely culprit.
on a 302, the dial switch turns off the receiver while the dialing takes place, and only turns it back on once the dialing has stopped, and also allows for a very short time in miliseconds for the transients to settle before connecting the receiver back in the circuit.  The receiver is connected to the white wire that connects to W on the dial.
regarding the "click" being produced when the
dial comes to rest, I think it is because the lower ("BB to W") contacts are closing
too soon.
The heavy bar nearest the terminal strip on the dial is equivalent to "W" and the
mating contact is "BB." The next contact is "R", then "BK" and finally the pulsing
contact "Y."
Observe the moveable contact above the "W" bar. Operate the dial to on off normal
position. Watch the action of the contact that mates to the heavy "W" bar.
Also, observe the contact just above it (the "R" contact). If the "R" contact stays
connected when the "BB to W" contact comes to rest, you must adjust the "R"
contact timing. This is done by bending the contact just above it (electrically, this
is the same as "BK."
Ideally, the two contacts "R" and "BB" must "float" when the dial is first turned
slightly off-normal. That means, one set must be breaking and the other set just
close to closing.
Regarding the condenser as a possible source of trouble, the click noise would
not have been present with the red wire disconnected from "C" on the coil.
the heavy "bar" at the bottom of the pile up.....Often that is the culprit.  I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and about midway along the "bar" I just bend it down a "tad".  That usually allows the "floating pair of contacts to clear the upper bar before the bottom contact touches the bar in question.
When you hear popping while the dial is operating, then it means that the receiver is not reconnected at the right time. It has to be the last circuit closed after the dial stops.  The W-BB contacts connect the receiver after the dial pulse switch has been permanently closed again.  Make sure the dial is wired correctly, and that the switches operate in the correct sequence.
fixed the popping issue by slightly bending the heavy bar "W" at the bottom of the pile up down 
(away from the governor).
When you hear popping while the dial is operating, then it means that the receiver is not reconnected at the right time. It has to be the last circuit closed after the dial stops.  The W-BB contacts connect the receiver after the dial pulse switch has been permanently closed again.
another test that should always be made before attempting to adjust contacts:
Remove the white receiver wire from W on the dial. Do you hear a pop when disconnecting the white wire, or reconnecting it?
put a jumper between L1 and R on the coil. It reduced the popping by about 80%
Move white (rec) handset wire to GN on 101A IND
Move red (common) handset wire to R on 101A
Move black (xmtr) handset wire to L2 on 101A

Then, if you can receive and transmit, move one handset lead at a time back to original position
tried the test with the handset direct to the line cord and still got nothing. I tried my test line cord, still nothing. Then I grabbed my test handset and still nothing. Now I knew it was in the handset or cord. I got my meter and tested the handset cord for continuity, it tested good. I checked from the wire connection inside the handset to the contacts for the element. I got continuity on black but nothing on the common red & white. I jumpered to the contact from the red wire and presto, I got dial tone.


Offline gands-antiques

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Wow, thanks RB for all of the popping troubleshooting history information.
I will print it and go through all of the information and also keep the copy for my files.


Thanks again!!
Gary