Author Topic: SC 1216 breakdown and repair.  (Read 1420 times)

Offline Brinybay

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SC 1216 breakdown and repair.
« on: July 28, 2011, 06:02:15 PM »
I sent the dial off to Steve Hilsz.  I actually sent him 3 dials, I got them all back in less than a week, expertly cleaned, lubed, repaired, cost was pretty much pocket cash.

I indicated to him on the repair order that I thought the brass color under the black paint on the finger wheel would look better, so I asked him if he would remove the paint and polish the finger wheel.  He went one better and installed a NOS SC brass finger wheel.

Now for the hard part.  The structure that holds all the springs for the line buttons is corroded, and soldered to the wires.  I started to remove the springs, but stopped after the first one when I realized what a nightmare it would be getting them all back together.  Just the first one was a real pain getting back in.  They have brown spacers of some sort of brittle material.  I don't think I got them in the right places on the one I removed, but hopefully that one won't make a difference in getting it functioning.  As far as cleaning the assembly that holds them, I had to just leave the wires on and put it in a bowl of CLR overnight.  I just took it out this morning, looks a lot better and seems to be none the worse for wear.  One of the buttons took a hit and broke getting it out, but some crazy glue will take care of that, unless I happen to find a replacement.  The faceplate for the line buttons had some pitting, but some light sanding with a fine grit and then hitting it with Novus 2 took care of that.

I can see now why I got this phone for such a reasonable price.  These have to be one of the biggest pita's to disassemble and work on.  I'm having real doubts about getting it functioning.  

Here's a thought that crossed my mind but I'm not sure if it would be practical:  Would installing a mini-network and bypass all the rest be a realistic solution?
« Last Edit: August 08, 2011, 05:20:45 AM by Brinybay »
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
 - Mike Row
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Offline Brinybay

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Re: SC 1216 breakdown and repair.
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2011, 08:16:47 PM »
I just did a superficial clean up on it.  I'm going to set it aside for now because it's going to take some time tinkering with it to get it to function, and I'll probably have to get some help with it.  I have other phones that need my attention that I know are much easier to work on.  Two of the buttons, the two in the middle bottom row, are not the right buttons, they're too small.  I'm not sure how the buttons functioned, they don't click down, they spring back when you release them.  Maybe somebody here knows.

I'm going to make a trip to the local Tap Plastics to see if they can reproduce the buttons w/o it costing a small fortune.  They did not clean up very well even after a bath in Oxiclean.  I used an electric toothbrush with a dab of Novus to finish cleaning them, but even then some of them looked rather fragile and still didn't clean up well.  I have in mind to do a touch-up paint job where it's worn around the button area and a little along the base.
« Last Edit: August 05, 2011, 05:17:23 AM by Brinybay »
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
 - Mike Row
e

Offline LarryInMichigan

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Re: SC 1216 breakdown and repair.
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2011, 08:25:56 PM »
Greg,

It's still a really nice looking phone for $30.  I use a Testors brand paint marker for touching up chips like that.  I think that it makes things look much better.  The local Ace Hardware store sells them for $3.49.  I think that their paint is  a better color match and more durable than the Sharpie brand paint markers.

Larry

Offline old_phone_man

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Re: SC 1216 breakdown and repair.
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2011, 08:45:36 PM »
Greg,

I think the phone looks really cool. 

It makes me think of the Western Electric 205 and 208 model. 

I would really like to know the significance of the colored buttons (red and blue).  I know you said the 2 buttons in the middle bottom row are not the right buttons because they are smaller than the others, but it's funny how they look like they are made like the others only "Smaller".

Jon

Offline rdelius

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Re: SC 1216 breakdown and repair.
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2011, 10:26:29 PM »
I believe the black buttons were extensions,the red was hold, and the other colors were CO lines. the buttons do not lock down .The relays in the KSU do the locking.Ihave a ksu but it is big and heavy so it stays in storage.Nothing  like a 1A2 system
Robby

Offline Brinybay

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Re: SC 1216 breakdown and repair.
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2011, 05:04:40 AM »
I didn't like that faceplate insert, so I made a different one.  No sense marking it for the different buttons, it's never going to function as a multi-line anyway.  I used my land-line number, but partially edited for obvious reasons.
« Last Edit: August 05, 2011, 05:11:43 AM by Brinybay »
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
 - Mike Row
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Offline Brinybay

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Re: SC 1216 breakdown and repair.
« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2011, 05:38:24 AM »
Well, looky what I just discovered!  The base is actually a two-piecer!  Just two screws on either side.  I could tell they had been removed before by the ease in which they came out.  Wish I'd known that when I was trying to get the dial back in!
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
 - Mike Row
e