Author Topic: Wiring 233g to subset  (Read 14263 times)

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #15 on: April 28, 2013, 01:29:44 PM »
Bill, I also have 233 g WE that I am converting for home use. I am using the 425e network and a ringerbox that is mounted in a payphone booth.  I followed your wiring layout and it helped very much. I still have only a couple issues. 1. I am not sure where the ringer wires go to the external ringer. There is a green and a red coming out of the ringer box. I presently have the green and red wires attached to the L-1 and L-2 on the 425 as you stated to do. I still have two wires left, a black and a clear wire to be attached somewhere from the 4 wire cord main line. Everything else is connected. 2. I only get a dial tone if I press and hold in the 4 prong metal connector that is located on the right side of the inside housing where you get the connection when re-attaching the phone back on the housing. Also, After doing so, I also get a dial tone when I rotate the dial and hold it?  Wierd. I haven't a clue but any HELP would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Gary

Offline poplar1

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #16 on: April 28, 2013, 01:53:53 PM »
Gary, in the wire going from the subset to the wall jack, you need only red and green wires.
You need 5 or 6 conductors from the subset to the pay phone.

Do you have a lock in the upper housing to hold the phone together? If not, you are having to push in on the upper housing because the contacts in the upper housing are not sufficiently connecting to the contacts in the upper housing.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2013, 01:58:03 PM by poplar1 »
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #17 on: April 28, 2013, 02:14:07 PM »
I don't have a lock but I push the upper housing in all the way very firmly, TIGHT and still same issue.

Offline poplar1

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #18 on: April 28, 2013, 03:00:08 PM »
I understood you to say that you do get a dial tone when pushing on the right side of the upper housing OR when you turn the dial--is that correct?
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #19 on: April 28, 2013, 03:21:34 PM »
I understood you to say that you do get a dial tone when pushing on the right side of the upper housing OR when you turn the dial--is that correct?
Only with the housing off will I get a dial tone by pushing and holding in the 4 prongs. When I connect the housing back on, I get no dial tone and the housing is completely pushed back and tight??? But, If I move the dial tone like I am dialing and hold it after rotating the dial slightly, I get a dial tone??? That is when the phone is completely put back together.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2013, 10:10:38 PM by AE_Collector »

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #20 on: April 28, 2013, 03:51:27 PM »
I know it sounds confusing. I get the dial tone when I push and hold the 4 prong with my fingers with the housing off. When I put the front housing on, I do not get any dial tone. Housing is pushed back firmly and tight. With saying that, when the phone is all put together, I get no dial tone. But, If I move the dial and hold it, I get a dial tone and when I let off the dial, there is no dial tone????? That may have explained it better. Sorry for the confusion.

Offline poplar1

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #21 on: April 28, 2013, 04:13:01 PM »
Do you have 6 conductors from the phone to the subset and 2 from the subset to the wall?  Originally, the booth would have had two 4-conductor wires between them, but only 6 of the 8 wires were used:

1st 4-conductor wire:

red from R in subset to TR terminal at top of the backplate in phone
green from GN in subset to  W terminal (part of the hookswitch contacts and transfer contacts)
black from B in subset  to T terminal at top of backplate
yellow from RR in subset to R terminal (hookswitch/transfer assembly)

2nd 4-conductor wire:

green from L2 on terminal strip of subset (not L2 on the 425 network) to L at top of backplate

red from L1 on terminal strip of subset  (not L1 on the network) to Y terminal (hookswitch/xfer)

yellow--not used

black--not used

Here are the relevant connection diagrams:

233G

http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/document-repository/doc_details/2274-coin-collectors-we230685a-tl

685A wired to a 233G:

http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/document-repository/doc_details/2270-subscriber-s-sets-we685ad-tl

Make sure that there is a jumper (short brown wire) from L2 on the terminal strip of subset (not L2 on the network) to C on the network. (The brown wire may be on Terminal 2 before it is moved.)

Make sure that there is no jumper (short blue wire) from L1 on the terminal strip of the subset to RR on the network.

The outside line (green and red) connects to L and Y inside the phone. You can instead connect the outside line to the subset using L2 and L1 of the terminal strip (not L2 and L1 on the network).

« Last Edit: April 28, 2013, 04:40:16 PM by poplar1 »
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #22 on: April 28, 2013, 04:47:28 PM »
Thank you. I think we are getting closer. I only have a T, TR, and L on my top terminal. There is presently no wires connected to L.  I have 6 conductors from phone to the net 425e and 2 from 425e to wall. I may be needing a subset as all I have is the 425e network and the exterior phone box. There is 1 through 6 connectors in the phone box.

Offline poplar1

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #23 on: April 28, 2013, 05:48:58 PM »
There should be connections from B on the network to T on the terminal strip at the top, and from R on the network to TR as discussed above. The handset needs to be connected also: One white wire to TR, Black to TR and red to T. (The other white handset wire connects to GN on the hookswitch.)

The 425E can be used even if it is not part of the subset. In that case, if you don't have a terminal strip near the network, you would connect the outside line to L1 and L2 on the network, run a short wire from L2 on the network to C, and connect the wire coming from Y in the phone to L1 on the network instead of L1 on the terminal strip of the subset. The L terminal doesn't have to be used if you have the outside line going directly to the subset.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #24 on: April 28, 2013, 06:49:29 PM »
I am following but if I hook up the wire from Y in the phone to the L-1 on the network it has no dial tone. If I connect the Y in the phone to L-2 on the network, I get a dial tone but only when I push on the 4 prongs and hold. Everything is hooked up but I have no subset? Do I need to purchase a WE 500 Rotary and hack the subset out of it? Thank you so much!!!!! I am much closer than I ever was!!!!

Offline poplar1

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #25 on: April 28, 2013, 07:14:38 PM »
L1 and L2 on the network---and L1 and L2 on the terminal strip--- are all just connecting points. It doesn't matter which ones you use to connect the outside line (from AT&T or whatever) so long as you also use the same terminals for both the outside iine AND the red wire from Y in the phone to L1 and a jumper wire from C to L2. Is that what you have?

There should also be a short wire between BB and BBX.

Do you have test leads with aligator clamps on each end? (Or two pieces of wire.) If so, you can temporarily put the upper housing (the part with the dial and coin slots) aside. Then connect one lead between W and BB terminals on the backplate, and another between SL and R.

Are all of the connections according to the diagram? Maybe you could post some photos of the inside of the phone and we might see something that isn't right.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2013, 07:21:30 PM by poplar1 »
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #26 on: April 28, 2013, 08:31:18 PM »
L1 and L2 on the network---and L1 and L2 on the terminal strip--- are all just connecting points. It doesn't matter which ones you use to connect the outside line (from AT&T or whatever) so long as you also use the same terminals for both the outside iine AND the red wire from Y in the phone to L1 and a jumper wire from C to L2. Is that what you have?

There should also be a short wire between BB and BBX.

Do you have test leads with aligator clamps on each end? (Or two pieces of wire.) If so, you can temporarily put the upper housing (the part with the dial and coin slots) aside. Then connect one lead between W and BB terminals on the backplate, and another between SL and R.

Are all of the connections according to the diagram? Maybe you could post some photos of the inside of the phone and we might see something that isn't right.
SEE PICS

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #27 on: April 28, 2013, 08:33:22 PM »
L1 and L2 on the network---and L1 and L2 on the terminal strip--- are all just connecting points. It doesn't matter which ones you use to connect the outside line (from AT&T or whatever) so long as you also use the same terminals for both the outside iine AND the red wire from Y in the phone to L1 and a jumper wire from C to L2. Is that what you have?

There should also be a short wire between BB and BBX.

Do you have test leads with aligator clamps on each end? (Or two pieces of wire.) If so, you can temporarily put the upper housing (the part with the dial and coin slots) aside. Then connect one lead between W and BB terminals on the backplate, and another between SL and R.

Are all of the connections according to the diagram? Maybe you could post some photos of the inside of the phone and we might see something that isn't right.
SEE PICS

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #28 on: April 28, 2013, 08:34:44 PM »
L1 and L2 on the network---and L1 and L2 on the terminal strip--- are all just connecting points. It doesn't matter which ones you use to connect the outside line (from AT&T or whatever) so long as you also use the same terminals for both the outside iine AND the red wire from Y in the phone to L1 and a jumper wire from C to L2. Is that what you have?

There should also be a short wire between BB and BBX.

Do you have test leads with aligator clamps on each end? (Or two pieces of wire.) If so, you can temporarily put the upper housing (the part with the dial and coin slots) aside. Then connect one lead between W and BB terminals on the backplate, and another between SL and R.

Are all of the connections according to the diagram? Maybe you could post some photos of the inside of the phone and we might see something that isn't right.
SEE PICS

Offline BO

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  • Posts: 27
Re: Wiring 233g to subset
« Reply #29 on: April 28, 2013, 08:37:33 PM »
L1 and L2 on the network---and L1 and L2 on the terminal strip--- are all just connecting points. It doesn't matter which ones you use to connect the outside line (from AT&T or whatever) so long as you also use the same terminals for both the outside iine AND the red wire from Y in the phone to L1 and a jumper wire from C to L2. Is that what you have?

There should also be a short wire between BB and BBX.

Do you have test leads with aligator clamps on each end? (Or two pieces of wire.) If so, you can temporarily put the upper housing (the part with the dial and coin slots) aside. Then connect one lead between W and BB terminals on the backplate, and another between SL and R.

Are all of the connections according to the diagram? Maybe you could post some photos of the inside of the phone and we might see something that isn't right.
SEE PICS