Author Topic: Wiring 233G to subset  (Read 20694 times)

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #45 on: April 29, 2013, 12:09:02 AM »
Thank you so much!!! We got this far. Not sure really what to do now but it looks like you narrowed it down to 3 things. Thank you again so much!!
Well, with the Upper housing back on complete, there is no dial tone until you rotate the dial slightly and hold it??? It must be with the upper housing somewhere like you said.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #46 on: April 29, 2013, 12:26:59 AM »
Did you check the colors of the wires in the dial cord to make sure they are on the right terminals?

After that, try removing one of the two temporary jumpers, then replace the upper housing.

Then put that jumper back and remove the other jumper, and again replace the upper housing.
yes, the one jumper BB to W had no dial tone. The other jumper did. The color code and amount of wires are not as you had listed for the dialer in the upper housing? They are as follows: 2 yellow wires going to the W, 1 red wire going to the Y, 1 green and black going to the BB, 1 red going to the R and 1 brown going to the BKX.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #47 on: April 29, 2013, 02:17:34 AM »
O.k. Some success. I re-wired the upper housing wires to your color codes and I now have a dial tone when the the housing is connected to the phone. You have been such a great help. I have had this phone for 2 years and just now am I making the effort to get it working that is with your help. Bad news. I can't dial out or in. The dial seems to be working but after dialing a number, it doesn't do anything. I wonder what is left!!!!!!??? Could it be the new 4 conductor armored handset wires that may not be wired correctly? I would think it would dial out now? Thank you.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #48 on: April 29, 2013, 09:57:37 AM »
Any last chance things to check before giving up?  I so much wanted to get this phone active. l.o.l. Thank you for everything. Gary

Online poplar1

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #49 on: April 29, 2013, 10:07:42 AM »
Check all the other wires to make sure they are connected to the right terminals. Use either the diagrams or the list in a previous post.

Looks like there would not be a wire  connected to BKX screw on the backplate since the relay is missing. Try swapping the red and black dial cord wires in the upper housing so that the red dial wire is now on the BKX terminal in the upper housing and the black dial wire is on R terminal in the upper housing.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #50 on: April 29, 2013, 10:48:32 AM »
Check all the other wires to make sure they are connected to the right terminals. Use either the diagrams or the list in a previous post.

Looks like there would not be a wire  connected to BKX screw on the backplate since the relay is missing. Try swapping the red and black dial cord wires in the upper housing so that the red dial wire is now on the BKX terminal in the upper housing and the black dial wire is on R terminal in the upper housing.
  BINGO!!!!!!!!! It dials out and excepts calls. Thank you. Now, when I attach the phone in the booth, how do I connect the green and red wires from the phone box to the network? I am so thankful for your help and time!!!!!!! Without your help, I would have NEVER got it working.

Online poplar1

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #51 on: April 29, 2013, 12:03:32 PM »
Is your ringer box labeled 687A or 685A? The 687A does not have a network but there should be a small capacitor and a ringer. You would connect the black ringer wire to the green incoming line and the red ringer wire to the red incoming line... The capacitor would connect to the other two ringer wires. (slate and red/slate).

In other words, the ringer circuit is connected directly to the line, just like an extension phone. If there is a capacitor inside the ringer box, then you are all set.

If you don't see a capacitor in the ringer box, you can always use A and K on the network instead. You would then have 4 wires  to the ringer box instead of 2.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #52 on: April 29, 2013, 12:28:21 PM »
Poplar1, All good!!!!! Up and running!!!!! Very pleased.  Could not have done it without your expertise and patience!!! I appreciate all your TIME dealing with this amateur. I will get you a pic soon as I will be mounting the phone in the booth soon. Thanks for all your help!!!!

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #53 on: April 29, 2013, 07:08:59 PM »
Thanks to Poplar1, I have a working 233 G WE 3 Slot Payphone working. I am posting 2 pic's. It was quite an education and it was much appreciated.  Great Forum. I have tryed to get help from many people over a two year span and no one wanted to take the time to help. Minutes after I posted my question, Help was there. I can't thank you enough. Special thanks to Poplar1. I picked up the 233 G for $75.00 two years ago and the booth just a year ago on a Williams pinball trade. Not the rich and the famous, but, just good old Vintage past that you can't put a price on. Got to love it.

Online HarrySmith

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #54 on: April 29, 2013, 09:43:49 PM »
Nice job! Looks great in the booth! I like how it is in original used condition, not looking brand new. How about a dial card??
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

Offline AE_Collector

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #55 on: April 29, 2013, 10:17:46 PM »
Good job Poplar1 !

Terry

Offline BO

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #56 on: April 29, 2013, 11:29:39 PM »
Nice job! Looks great in the booth! I like how it is in original used condition, not looking brand new. How about a dial card??
Not sure how to put one in? I have one.

Offline Jim Stettler

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #57 on: April 30, 2013, 02:08:51 PM »
Nice set-up. I don't have room inside for a superman type booth.

Your booth appears to be a cold weather climate booth.
 I have a Stainless Steel "sea side" superman style booth.
 I still need to decide where to put it at the new place. I am leaning towards the back yard, I was able to get a nice round lighted sign for it at the KS show a couple of weeks ago. I am thinking the sign could work well for a "party " light in the yard.

Jim
My booth was installed on the Texas coast. A collector friend in OK bought it and hauled it to Tulsa. A few years later he hauled it to Salina KS for me to buy and I hauled it home to  CO.

I
You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.

Offline dmz

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #58 on: April 12, 2014, 09:01:17 AM »
I currently have a 684BA subset that I want to connect to a 233G.  I understood that this was possible; however, I do not see how to translate the instructions for the 425 network to the 684BA connections.  The 101 network that is inside does not have the RR or B terminal as described for the 425 network.  The terminal connections in the 684BA are GN, R, L2Y and C on the transformer and E, GND, K and BK on the terminal block.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

dmz

Offline Phonesrfun

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Re: Wiring 233G to subset
« Reply #59 on: April 12, 2014, 08:58:47 PM »
dmz:

You received some advice on the TCI listserve on this topic that I might give you further information on.  The person who replied said that using 684 subset on a 233G was like putting the wrong engine in a car.  I believe that person was trying to be technically correct.

You then asked if there was no way to connect your payphone to a 684.  The short answer is yes, and let me tell you more.  The 233G payphone has a G1 handset which contains more sensitive elements than the F1 handset.  Basically, the 684 was designed for the less sensitive handset and does not have some of the automatic volume control (equalization) that the 685 has.  By connecting your 233G to a 684 subset, you will experience a little louder than normal volume in the receiver.  That's about it.  It certainly won't hurt anything to connect it to a 684.  All you really need is a magic decoder ring to translate all the connections and that is not only possible, but I have the diagram somewhere.

This is really exactly the same discussion about connecting a G1 handset to a 5302, rather than an F1 handset.

Anyway, I will try to find my notes on it, but if I can't I am sure Dave (Poplar1) has that information up his sleeve too.

You did not mention anything about collecting or returning coins.  If the payphone has a functioning coin relay still in it, a simulator can be purchased that will simulate the action for collecting and returning coins, but those simulators are not necessary if you just want to use the payphone as an extension.
-Bill G