Author Topic: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.  (Read 7785 times)

Offline Mr. Bones

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #15 on: April 21, 2013, 01:10:23 AM »
Thanks for the info!

     Does the same apply for '202's', or '211's'? I have zero candlesticks, thus far. Working on a remedy for that. ;)

Best regards!
Sláinte!
   Mr. Bones
      Rubricollis Ferus

Offline poplar1

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #16 on: April 21, 2013, 11:01:25 AM »
If you use the two 202s or 211s or any combination with an anti-sidetone subset, then yes, the same problem exists. The two transmitters will be connected in parallel so when one phone is off-hook, both transmitters are activated. Many "211s" are actually 212s and already have extra contacts that you can use to open the red lead going from R on the subset to the red handset wire.


Thanks for the info!

     Does the same apply for '202's', or '211's'? I have zero candlesticks, thus far. Working on a remedy for that. ;)

Best regards!
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline poplar1

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #17 on: April 21, 2013, 11:29:50 AM »
Look at your "211s" and see if any of them are marked G-7 on the housing instead of G-1. If so, you can use the YT and YY contacts to break the two red leads.

BSP 502-303-403 Issue 3 April 1964 in TCI library shows the contacts for a G-7 handset mounting, which is part of a 212L.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline Mr. Bones

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #18 on: April 21, 2013, 03:31:13 PM »
Look at your "211s" and see if any of them are marked G-7 on the housing instead of G-1. If so, you can use the YT and YY contacts to break the two red leads.

BSP 502-303-403 Issue 3 April 1964 in TCI library shows the contacts for a G-7 handset mounting, which is part of a 212L.
     One of my 211's is still a G-1, with an F1 handset / straight cord. The other has the G-7 in vermillion ink, below the original G-1 marking, and has a G-1 handset with curly cord.

     Thanks for the BSP reference number; I just love learning more about my toys! ;)

Best regards!
Sláinte!
   Mr. Bones
      Rubricollis Ferus

Offline poplar1

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #19 on: April 23, 2013, 12:14:40 AM »
The diagram in 502-303-403 is good for showing the extra contacts in a G-7 mounting compared to a G-1 mtg. However, this diagram is for connecting to a 685A subset.

For a 634a or 684A subset,  you would need to refer to a different BSP, such as Section C38.337, for the connections. (This does not show the G-7 mounting but rather the G-1.)

http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/document-repository/doc_download/5489-c38-337-i1-aug57-hand-telephone-sets-211a-b-c-d

Still, in the G-7 mounting, you would move all the leads currently on R as folllows:

Red subset lead to YT
Red and white G-1 handset leads to YY (or only red handset lead for F-1 or E-1 handset)

You always need to check any G-type mounting to see how it is wired:
1---for a 685A  (5 wires to subset)
2---for a 634A, 684A, or 302 base (4 wires to subset)
3---hot wired by someone trying to make it work without a subset

You can always change from 1-- to 2--  by moving the black handset lead from BL to B.
If you want to try #3, you're on your own.



« Last Edit: April 23, 2013, 01:09:40 AM by poplar1 »
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline Brinybay

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #20 on: November 14, 2013, 12:41:34 AM »
Here is a picture of the cording for a 151-AL (except that the red wire needs to move to the R on the terminal block and the black wire needs to be on BK of the dial).

I came back to this project and thread after letting it sit for 6 months, now I'm all confused.  

What subset(s) were used for this phone when they were in service?  I have a 634BA, 684A and 684BA.  If I can choose from one of those, then I would like to use the 634BA.

Could you label the wires in your pictures?  It's hard for me to tell from looking at the picture which wires are coming from the receiver cord and which are the line going to the subset.

How many conductors for the phone-to-subset cord?

How many conductors for the subset-to-wall cord?

Apparently I stopped in the middle of moving wires around on the dial, here's how it was left:
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 12:55:38 AM by Brinybay »
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Offline Phonesrfun

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #21 on: November 14, 2013, 01:14:22 AM »
684A would be the best. 

Phone to subset = 4 conductors, Red, green, yellow, black are standard colors

Subset to wall the usual 2 conductors, red and green are standard
-Bill G

Offline poplar1

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #22 on: November 14, 2013, 08:13:36 AM »
Any of those subsets will work; the only difference is the As have low impedance ringers but the talk circuit--anti-sidetone--is the same.

Receiver:
Green to GN terminal
White to W on dial

Desk Stand Cord:
Green to GN terminal
Red to Red terminal
Yellow to B-Y terminal
Black to BK on dial

Harness:
Blue to B-Y terminal
Yellow to Y on dial
Red to R terminal
Brown-Blue to BB on dial
Black to BK on dial

If using a 4H, 5H or 6A dial: strap BB and W on dial

Subset:
Red to R on induction coil
Green to GN on induction coil
Yellow to Y-L2 on induction coil
Black to BK terminal (with black condenser wire)

Line
Red to L1
Green to L2Y

Ringer
Red to L1
Black to K

Condenser:
Yellow to L2Y
Slate to K
Red to C on induction coil
Black to BK
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Offline Brinybay

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with 3 subsets.
« Reply #23 on: January 15, 2014, 10:21:03 PM »
Finally got this thing wired correctly, but with an original 4-conductor cord.  Functions, but wouldn't you know it, now the dial wants to crap out on me, won't return fully.  That's ok, it works enough to dial a 2-digit extension on my PBX, plus I have another 4H dial to put in it, I'll just ship the other off to Steve Hilsz.  I hooked it up to the 634BA first, but it won't ring.  Those big gongs in a large case look like they would make quite a noise, that's why I wanted to use it.  Refresh my memory on that ringer, will it not work at all?
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
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Offline HarrySmith

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #24 on: January 15, 2014, 10:23:33 PM »
Try moving the ringer wires to the coil from the board.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

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there is only
do or do not"

Offline Brinybay

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #25 on: January 15, 2014, 10:50:16 PM »
Try moving the ringer wires to the coil from the board.

I moved the black ringer wire from L1 on the board to L1 on the coil, but where does the red wire go?  There's no BK on the coil.  It almost works on L2, but it only rings once and disconnects (busy).
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
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Offline HarrySmith

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #26 on: January 15, 2014, 11:43:28 PM »
As Poplar posted below Red to L1 and Black to K.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

Offline Brinybay

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #27 on: January 15, 2014, 11:52:57 PM »
As Poplar posted below Red to L1 and Black to K.

Oops, it was right in front of me, thanks!
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Rowe

Offline Brinybay

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #28 on: January 16, 2014, 03:27:31 PM »
That worked.  Now all I have to do is swap out the dial.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Rowe

Offline unbeldi

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Re: Testing one of my sticks with two subsets.
« Reply #29 on: January 16, 2014, 07:21:22 PM »
These gongs can make a beautiful sound when adjusted right. They keep resonating for about 15 seconds after ringing stops.
Is there a ringer number on the yoke?
Most of the time you see these with low impedance ringers.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2014, 07:23:35 PM by unbeldi »