AE 3-Slot LPB-82-55, Wiring for home use but no dialtone

[Famicoman]

Hi all!

I have this new-to-me AE 3-Slot that I'm trying to wire for home use, but I cannot seem to get a dialtone from it. I'd really prefer to use the original innards if possible as opposed to replacing with modern parts, so hopefully this is a fairly easy fix.

Following tutorials online, I've made sure the green wire from the phone line is connected to L1 while the red wire is connected to L2. On the relay, I've removed the top-back wire from the terminal (green on my phone). Further, on the back of the upper housing I *think* that the black box with the arm coming out of it is the microswitch. On the bottom of this is a white and black wire, so I disconnected the white wire where it screws into the terminal.

Behavior now is that I get no dialtone, but I get a click when flashing the hook and I get a single click when spinning the dial. To note, the dial is faulty as it doesn't return (I'll work on fixing this later) but I'm guessing I could always try to manual return it for testing.

Pictures attached!

[G-Man]

After connecting the line wires to L1 and L2, make certain that the rest of the wiring is according to the wiring diagram below. 
If the dial is at its rest position and there are no problems with the handset or other components, you should be able to hear dialtone.

[RDPipes]

You state the dial doesn't return properly, I have experience several times no dial tone
because the dial was not opening or closing the proper contacts when at rest, being yours is not returning
properly could be a problem also. I would either have the dial repaired (by Steve Hilsz) or replace it with a known proper working one before going any further.

[Famicoman]

Thanks all for the guidance so far! I'll first consult the diagram and see what's going on.

Aside from getting a known-working dial, are there any other recommendations for components inside that should be replaced due to age? For example, I see kits for sale to get 3-slot payphones working that include a condenser, and if I'm going to end up getting a dial I might as well make one large purchase.

[G-Man]

No need to purchase another dial that may also end up being defective or out of spec.
 
Steve Hilsz is well known for his expertise in cleaning, repairing and calibrating dials back to factory specs. He performs this service for only $6.00 per dial. Any needed parts are extra but I suspect that your dial would only need to be cleaned and adjusted.

Here is a short blurb regarding Steve from 2010-

• https://money.cnn.com/galleries/2010/technology/1004/gallery.obsolete_tech.fortune/2.html

There is further information on his website. It appears that the links are currently down due to server issues but you can call or email him or just mail the dial in care of the address that is shown below:

Send your defective dials to VTS Industrial Company.
 It's only $6 per dial, plus parts, to bring them back to life.
 Western Electric, Stromberg-Carlson, Automatic Electric,
 North Electric, Northern Electric, Siemens Brothers.
 We've repaired these and other brands.

VTS Industrial Company

Steve Hilsz
 P.O. Box 429
 66776 E. Highway 60
 Salome, AZ 85348

(520) 859-3595

jydsk@tds.net

 

[Famicoman]

Looks like this was as simple as swapping ring/tip from the phone line. I now have a dialtone! Rotating the dial does seem to break the dialtone, so I think this is working as expected for now.

I didn't know Steve's service was so reasonable! I'll be sure to reach out to him about my dial.

[ka1axy]

You state the dial doesn't return properly, I have experience several times no dial tone
because the dial was not opening or closing the proper contacts when at rest, being yours is not returning
properly could be a problem also. I would either have the dial repaired (by Steve Hilsz) or replace it with a known proper working one before going any further.

+1 for sending the dial to Steve. He'll turn it around quickly and do a great job. I've sent 3 to him and am very happy with his work. Your new toy deserves a cleaned and adjusted dial!

[ka1axy]

Aside from getting a known-working dial, are there any other recommendations for components inside that should be replaced due to age? For example, I see kits for sale to get 3-slot payphones working that include a condenser, and if I'm going to end up getting a dial I might as well make one large purchase.

Pretty sure the condenser is for hooking up a bell. I added one to mine, and used one of these bells, and this condenser (or you can use any nonpolarised 0.47uF/250V capacitor)  I mounted mine on a piece of 1/4" ply and zip-tied it in where the coin relay used to go. Condenser goes in series with the bell and the combination is wired as shown in the schematic (you can also put the cap/ringer right across L1/L2). Mine came wired with the cap between L1 and G, and the ringer between L2 and G, so there are many ways to make it work.

If you don't have a coin box and want something to catch the coins, I have found that a 100g Twinings tea tin (the larger size) fits perfectly between the two guides on the floor of the coin section. I glued a small handle to one end, which allows me to pull it out.

[ka1axy]

Making your own backboard is pretty easy. Lowe's sells T-nuts and you can trace the outline of the phone and the hole locations.

[Famicoman]

Hi all, just wanted to update the group!

Turns out the dial is actually already working perfectly! While I was trying to disassemble everything, I noticed that the finger wheel was warped/bowed to the point where it wasn't screwing into the dial properly. I replaced it and now everything works as expected. I think the original finger wheel can be saved if I bend it back to proper form. Based on the cosmetic issues this phone has I'm guessing it either fell or was dropped on its face many times.

Anyway, it looks like the changes to wiring I made have enabled me to make calls without needing any coins. Further, I went ahead and bought one of those four-wire single-gong ringers and zip-tied it to the relay. I wired it up to terminals L1/L2, and figured this likely mirrors the behavior of a C4A so I placed a modern film cap between the remaining two ringer wires and it seems to ring as expected!

I ran into a few snags between my last post and now. I ordered a new AE handset with (armored) cord as the old one was deteriorating badly and the receiver element was dead on arrival. Unfortunately the element in the original handset was physically incompatible with the newer handset so I had to wait for that to come in as well. I did also do some minor fixes like replacing the info card plastic and some missing rivets on the coin gauge.

I'll get a nice picture to share when I clean it up a bit more. It certainly won't win any beauty contests but it's a lovely phone.

[HarrySmith]

Congrats!
What I have done with bent metal finger wheels is simply place it between 2 pieces of 2X4 and whack it with a hammer. Usually only takes 1 or 2 whacks to get it straight.

[ka1axy]

Congrats!
What I have done with bent metal finger wheels is simply place it between 2 pieces of 2X4 and whack it with a hammer. Usually only takes 1 or 2 whacks to get it straight.

I did almost this (used a vise) with a bent fingerwheel I got with my spacesaver. Almost perfect recovery, and a black paintmarker (I am not a perfectionist) fixed the chipped paint at the bend point.