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#31
Technical "Stuff" / Re: Question about hookswitch ...
Last post by MaximRecoil - March 25, 2024, 02:04:44 PM
Quote from: poplar1 on March 25, 2024, 12:18:20 PMYou don't need to open both tip and ring sides of the line.

Thanks. Do you know why Western Electric had a switch on both tip and ring that opened and closed simultaneously? Was it just for the sake of redundancy?

The reason I'm wondering if something's wrong with the wiring in this phone I put together is: when it's plugged in, my Western Electric 554 in the kitchen sounds different through the receiver when dialing. It's hard to describe, but on the dial's return, when it stops, there's somewhat of a pop sound in the receiver ("pop" isn't the best word, but I can't think of any other word to use). When I unplug this phone, that goes away (and it never did it before I put this phone together and plugged it in).

As I was typing this I figured out what's causing it, but I don't know why it's causing it. It's the little electronic "ringer" that's built into the keypad of the phone I put together.

If I disconnect the electronic ringer then the 554 is normal; if I reconnect its ringer, the 554 makes that popping sound when dialing. I also noticed that when going on or off hook, and when dialing, from any of my three plugged-in rotary phones, that electronic ringer in this phone I put together makes little chirp sounds that correspond with the hookswitch opening/closing, and it does it regardless of the polarity of its 2 ringer wires. Also, I've already confirmed that the polarity of all of my phone jacks is correct (I used a Western Electric 2500DM [no polarity guard] to test all of them).

Somehow that electronic ringer is giving/getting feedback into/from the line even when the phone it's attached to is on the hook. Its 2 wires are connected to K and L1, and the rest of the wiring is the same as I typed out in my original post, with the exception of the hookswitch wires. I disconnected all of those and connected the single microswitch to L1 like I described in reply #1.
#32
Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: NE-500 from Turkey - how t...
Last post by Gerd - March 25, 2024, 01:27:23 PM
Thank you HarrySmith. Honestly I'm happy,too. Today I began wet-sanding the Bezel, Shell and Handset. 320, 400, 600. To follow up to 3000. The Bezel already came out nice, all the scratches could be removed. Waiting for delivery of the Sandpaper..
*more to follow*
#33
Technical "Stuff" / Re: Question about hookswitch ...
Last post by poplar1 - March 25, 2024, 12:18:20 PM
You don't need to open both tip and ring sides of the line.
#34
Technical "Stuff" / Re: Question about hookswitch ...
Last post by MaximRecoil - March 25, 2024, 11:29:10 AM
Quote from: MaximRecoil on March 23, 2024, 07:31:32 PMIn stock form, the L2 circuit is on a switch too, but I don't believe that's necessary (plus I don't have a second switch; I could do it with a DPST microswitch though, if I could find one that's the same form factor as the existing one), so I just ran a jumper wire from the L2 keypad terminal to the L2 network terminal.

Is there any importance to having a switch on both L1 and L2? With the way I have it right now, with a hookswitch just on L1, it seems to work fine, but L2 is always electrically connected to the phone line even when you hang up. Could that cause any problems?

No one seems to make a DPST microswitch in the form factor that I need (subminiature, like this one - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2S-10LD/1811978), which is too bad, because that would make it easy to switch both L1 and L2 simultaneously.

If it's important to have both L1 and L2 switched, I could add a second microswitch to the hookswitch assembly. The attached picture shows the simple mechanism. I could just get a pair of mounting screws that are twice as long as the stock ones so that I could mount a second identical microswitch right up against the one that's already there. The cam that activates the microswitch lever is wide enough to activate two of them at once.

I'd have to make some minor modifications to make it reliable though. The clear plastic sleeve that has the cam on it can shift a little from left to right; I positioned it as far as it would go to the left for the purposes of the picture, to show the width of the cam. That results in about 75% of the width of the cam being under the microswitch lever, with 25% to spare for activating a second microswitch. I'd rather have it be an even 50/50 and make it so it can't shift side to side. I'd have to shorten the sleeve a little so that it can move farther to the left, and then add a spacer (such as a nylon washer) on the right-hand side to keep it from shifting back to the right.
#35
COOL! I am happy you did not give up and got it apart. Also, thank you Teleplay for that detailed post, very informative. I agree, the ultrasonic cleaner should do the trick. Just follow the warnings about getting it dried out completely. Lubing it will not be difficult either, use the oil sparingly.
#36
Didn't know you had an ultrasonic cleaner. They work well for dials that can't be taken apart for cleaning. I have one and used ultrasonic on dials, only caution is to let them dry out after cleaning, rinsing with distilled water and blowing the water out with dry compressed air.

I would let them sit under a tungsten filament (Edison) light bulb to warm them up to dry better.

You can search the forum for "ultrasonic" and find a lot about that method.



#37
Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: NE-500 from Turkey - how t...
Last post by Gerd - March 25, 2024, 06:16:31 AM
Thank you again,
I read the Link about lubrication. After all I am making my mind up using my ultrasonic cleaner an then will this product give a try:
https://www.ballistol-shop.de/Universal-Oils/Fine-Mechanic-Oil_B_S_38_52.html
I will give an Update as soon as possible.
#38
All Other Pay Telephones / Re: Converting an Intellicall ...
Last post by 5415551212 - March 24, 2024, 10:00:48 PM
Very cool project, thanks for sharing.
#39
I prefer to use lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, white spirits or paint thinner to clean metal dial gears and parts. You have plastic, or maybe nylon, parts and gears which might melt with the petroleum based solvents.

Alcohol, a water based solvent, should work but will take a bit more time, more effort (oil based crud doesn't dissolve in water based solvents as well).

An old toothbrush, or similar type brush, along with pointed toothpicks (for getting crud out of gear teeth) and pipe cleaners work will for cleaning these dials which can not be taken apart.

And, it might be you dial is not crudded up but just lubricant dried out, in which case lubrication will be all that is needed.

I've found that dials slow down for basically 2 reasons: 1) excessive lubrication which collects dust and dirt which over time turns to near rock hard crud, and 2) the original lubrication has dried out and friction increases.

In either case, lubrication will be needed and this topic is a good source of lubricant information, if you haven't already found it:

https://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=7899.0

#40
General Discussion / Re: AT&T slimline 210
Last post by MMikeJBenN27 - March 24, 2024, 07:40:33 PM
That's what they want to do here as well.  I just hope the PUC refuses them, as VOIP requires a modem, which doesn't work if there is a power failure, and I don't have the money for a Tesla Powerwall.

Mike