News:

"The phone is a remarkably complex, simple device,
and very rarely ever needs repairs, once you fix them." - Dan/Panther

Main Menu

Western Electric Decals

Started by JimNY, September 19, 2019, 07:29:55 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

JimNY

Hi All,
Time for my second post here, so please excuse my 'newb-ieness'.  I'm restoring a WE 317 I found at a garage sale. It was in rough shape but appears to be all original.  The original decal was nearly gone and unreadable so I am replacing it.  The box is also getting a new shellac finish. My question is, should the decal go under the finish, or be placed on top?   I hope that makes sense!

Thanks

FABphones

I'd like to see this, could you add photos.  :)
A collector of  'Monochrome Phones with Sepia Tones'   ...and a Duck!
***********
Vintage Phones - 10% man made, 90% Tribble
*************

RB

Don't know nuthin bout decals, but would spect, decal on top,= corners peelin up.
decal on bottom, still see it ok, no peeling, and, as long as the finish does not eat the decal, better idea???

tubaman

I'm pretty sure that the decals go on top.
:)

Key2871

KEN

HarrySmith

Agreed. Original would have been on top of finish. If you are using a similar finish, varnish or the like, that is your best bet. However if you are using polyurethane or similar putting a coat on top of the decal might be a good idea to protect it.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

Jim Stettler

The finish goes over the decal.
Later I will be posting a source for water based decals and repro #6 batteries.
Jim
You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.

Ktownphoneco

#7
In the wood working world, it's a practice to use clear shellac over top of a water slide decal, but it's a good idea to apply a couple of coats of clear shellac to a scrap piece of wood, let it dry thoroughly, then apply a spare water decal and let it dry for 24 hours to make sure any moisture under the decal has a chance to dry completely.     Then go ahead and apply one or two coats over the decal just to make sure it doesn't damage or destroy the decal.   
The same thing applies when using clear coat sprays over water decals.     Use a spare decal and test how it's going to react to the clear coat.   Some clear coats will destroy a decal in short order.

If there's a problem between the decal and whatever finish one plans to use, it's always best to find that out on a test piece rather than the actual object your applying the decal to.

Jeff Lamb


JimNY

Thanks for all the responses, so many that I now have a follow up question... I've found a few versions of decal that claim to be for the 317.  I believe I have an early version 1909ish.  Anyone know which decal would be appropriate for the box? I've seen a black on orange version that has the same plain font as mine, but if I look closely mine looks to be black on gold (its hard to tell as almost all the color is gone).  Did WE use a black/gold label with the plain font?

Here is a pic of the phone.. the decal is present but almost completely illegible.  Thanks

Sargeguy

That looks like the block lettering logo.  I'm not sure if they make a decent repro of that one. You may want to leave as is. 
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409

HarrySmith

They were Black on Gold, not Orange. I cannot tell you which repro would be correct for your phone. It looks like there is enough of the original decal left to make a good comparison.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

.....


Sargeguy

Here is the logo you are looking for:

http://www.oldphoneworks.com/water-decal-western-electric-block-lettering.html

I remember I ordered some but never used them because I think they were too small or else didn't look genuine for some reason.
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409