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Diagram for WE 500 w/ 425E Type Network

Started by WesternElectricBen, January 20, 2014, 06:46:45 PM

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andre_janew

It does, in fact, look like your 500C.  That must be the model I meant.  I do have a phone that does have a 425B network.  It is a fully modular 500DM.  It has a 10-59 date on its network and it also has a dial with a clear plastic wheel.  It was probably refurbished at some point, but I'm hoping I could use it as a reference for my 500C.

unbeldi

Good deal for $0.99.

When you open it up you will see screw terminals on top of the network.
Locate the L1 and L2 terminals.  L1 has the green line cord conductor and L2 has the red one.  Between the two terminals is an elevated terminal G.  G stands for ground, and was used for the ground connection for ringing. It may have the yellow line conductor connected. It also may have the black wire to the ringer. This prevents ringing on modern lines.

If the black wire is indeed there, move it over to L1. That connects the ringer between the two line wires, tip and ring and it should work if every thing else is ok.

andre_janew


poplar1

To convert a 500D (dial) to 500C (manual)--or 500DM to 500CM:
After removing all four dial wires, move the slate-white hookswitch wire (white in later sets) from F to RR.
Mets-en, c'est pas de l'onguent!

"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

andre_janew

I got the phone today.  I moved the black wire to L1 and now the ringer works!  It is the only phone I have where all the major components were all made in the same year.  Pictures of my WE 500C and the story of how I found it can be found in the November 2014 Find of the Month section.

andre_janew

I have a 500 with a 425E network.  I can't get a dial tone with it unless the blue wire from the dial is on L1 instead of F.  What is going on here?  Is the network bad or could there be something else wrong?

unbeldi

Quote from: andre_janew on June 19, 2016, 04:29:47 PM
I have a 500 with a 425E network.  I can't get a dial tone with it unless the blue wire from the dial is on L1 instead of F.  What is going on here?  Is the network bad or could there be something else wrong?

Well, moving that wire primarily excludes the hook switch from the circuit, make sure the line switch (slate-green/slate-white ?) actually closes when going off-hook.

andre_janew

I figure I'm probably bypassing a bad set of contacts.  The phone does work normally wired that way.  I suppose I should get a replacement hook switch for it.

unbeldi

Quote from: andre_janew on December 20, 2016, 06:00:12 PM
I figure I'm probably bypassing a bad set of contacts.  The phone does work normally wired that way.  I suppose I should get a replacement hook switch for it.
How about first testing the suspect hook switch contacts.  Do you have a multimeter ?  Alternately, you can use a battery and a flash light bulb.


unbeldi

Quote from: andre_janew on December 21, 2016, 12:13:55 PM
I don't have a mutimeter.

I do think any telephone hobbyist should have at least a basic one, if ever interested in opening up a telephone and fixing it.  These can be bought very cheaply even at Walmart for much less than we pay for many phones.

For example:  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Multimeter-10709/14521541  which is listed at $14. This particular one probably comes in handy in many situations for testing batteries as well.
In addition it measures resistance (ohm, Ω), voltage (V), and current (amperes, A).
Feel free to upgrade to one of the many instruments also available for a little more.

Pourme

If you have a local Harbor freight, get on their emailing list. They send out a coupon several times each year for a free multi tester, no purchase required. They work, I have several. 
Benny

Panasonic 308/616 Magicjack service

andre_janew

Until I get a multimeter, how do I test it with a battery and a bulb?

HarrySmith

Quote from: Pourme on December 21, 2016, 06:40:06 PM
If you have a local Harbor freight, get on their emailing list. They send out a coupon several times each year for a free multi tester, no purchase required. They work, I have several. 

No need to get on the mailing list, when you walk in the store they have the flyers right there inside the door. Just pick one up and rip out the coupon.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

Jim Stettler

Quote from: andre_janew on December 23, 2016, 05:03:44 PM
Until I get a multimeter, how do I test it with a battery and a bulb?
Have the bulb in series with the battery.  Test probe + going to battery + then the "load" then battery -. When you "contact" the leads together  the "load" activates.


The load can be a light or buzzer. Look up "continuity light" for more info.

Have fun with the concept. It is 1 way find broken conductors on wire runs.

Jim S.
You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.