2565HKM Question

[HowardPgh]

I recently acquired a 2565 keyset. I have no real way to test it. I know the wires Blue/White and White Blue are for line 1 on the phone-Correct?  If I hook up my L1,L2 to these, will I have a functioning phone on the first line?  I studied the schematic, but I'm not sure of the connections.

[G-Man]

Yes, connecting the tip and ring leads of your telephone line to 1R and 1T will allow you to access it.

However the lights will not illuminate, you will not be able to place the line on hold, and unless you swing the ringer leads over to those terminals, it will not ring on incoming calls. You can use a transformer to illuminate the lamps or connect the phone to a small key system control unit to make it fully functional.

[segaloco]

If it helps, I found you can also do a quick "does it work at all" by connecting tip/ring from a conventional line to C and L2 on the network itself (as opposed to L1/L2).  This is based on Fig. 1 in 502-543-405 (Issue 9 if it matters, using my physical Nov 1982 BSP copy.)  Just got a 2565KHM in the mail today and haven't received my 551B yet, so just been tinkering with it, making sure general stuff works.  I found that after throwing conventional talk voltage on L1/L2 and getting nothing out of it, switched L1 to C and was able to hear myself out of my 500DM just fine, listen to dial tones, etc.  Note I just based this on diagrams, dunno how safe it actually is for the hardware to short it like that, but made for a good check in my case.  I would certainly appreciate to know if this is deadly to a key telephone (in isolation, not hooked into a KSU) and I shouldn't ever do it.

Figured I'd ask here rather than make a whole new 2565HKM thread, but I'm getting some unexpected (by me) ringer behavior.  The same figure indicates that ringing signal comes in from the KSU ringer circuit on clips 39 and 40 to terminals RR and RT on the 636A key terminal block.  These terminals are then connected to either an H1A or H1B ringer.  Based on the connections, I'm pretty sure I've got an H1B, as there is a single line going from RR to A on the 425K network, and then R from the ringer connects to K on the network.  Finally, BK from the ringer connects back to RT, completing the circuit.

I made the connections according to the diagram and with ringing signal, I do get a ring on the (single) bell.  However, what perplexes me is this is with the chassis removed and no handset depressing the switch-hook.  Do the 2565HK and other key telephones not depend on the handset being on the hook to allow the physical bell to ring?  In other words, is the H1B on a 2565HK supposed to ring even when the handset is not on the hook?  Note I haven't tested the buzzer yet to see if the buzzer is also ignorant of the switch-hook.  That'll either be when the KSU gets here or when I get down to my music practice space and grab my sine generator (can set it to whatever Hz is needed @ 10V).  I could see there being no switch-hook termination of the ringer in a key phone if the KSU itself would catch the off-the-hook and cut the ringer circuit itself.

Either way, on the subject of the buzzer, I see in diagrams the buzzer being mounted in the empty spot where the second bell is absent on the H1B ringer.  However, on this phone, the buzzer is instead mounted with the DTMF dial, which I've also seen in plenty of pictures.  Is there some rule of thumb for where it *should* be mounted, or are both conventional mounting spots depending on a customer's order?  Note that this appears to be a refurb, it has a modular handset but is labeled 2565HK directly on the base plate, but there is a tiny bit of residue suggesting a refurb/modularization that was done and the sticker has since peeled off.  All that to say, I wouldn't expect the innards to be 100% stock given that, maybe someone moved the buzzer when doing the refurb/modular jack install for all I know.

Also sorry for no pictures, hopefully I've described the terminals and circuits well enough, but let me know and I can try and take some pictures.

[G-Man]

Figured I'd ask here rather than make a whole new 2565HKM thread

Even though you have hijacked another poster's thread, here are a couple of answers to your (unrelated) questions. However, by closely reviewing the schematics and other documentation for your KSU and instrument, you should be able to answer the others that you have raised.

The ringer (whether C or H types) is usually wired from the factory for common audible (CA) ringing which means the ringer is controlled by the interrupter and line card that is installed in the KSU.

Otherwise, if requested, an installer can rewire it across one of the incoming lines which means it will only ring on it and not the other lines.

Likewise, the buzzer is also not controlled by the telephone set. The buzzer was originally mounted with a dial mounting screw but could also be mounted in the space where the missing ringer gong would have normally been installed.

There were several types of ringers and buzzers that were used with various generations of key telephone sets depending on vintage and service requirements.

As far as using a standard telephone set, "A" lead control is enabled by the installer connecting certain switchook contacts within the instrument to a spare pair of wires in the linecord.

In the instance of a single line 500-set, yellow and black are typically used if they have been rewired to those contacts.


 

[G-Man]

If it helps, I found you can also do a quick "does it work at all" by connecting tip/ring from a conventional line to C and L2 on the network itself (as opposed to L1/L2).

In this context, L1/L2, T/R, Tip/Ring are all used to designate the positive and negative sides of a telephone line.

[segaloco]

Even though you have hijacked another poster's thread, here are a couple of answers to your (unrelated) questions.

I'm sorry but I must ask, is there a reason for the subtle hostility?  I've been feeling this vibe around here in responses to things I've been posting and asking since joining...am I just in the wrong place?  I can just tinker on my stuff in the isolation of my own little life, I just thought, maybe, it'd be a fun idea to join a social community about things I share an interest with people on and interact and contribute where I can.  If I'm doing this wrong yet again (after years of giving up on and trying to do social circles) then tell me so and I'll get out of your hair, I obviously don't know whatever everyone else in this world does about communicating with others about shared interests.

[TelePlay]

Figured I'd ask here rather than make a whole new 2565HKM thread

It would have been best to create a separate topic for your specific phone.

Having 2 unique phones, even if the exact model, being discussed at the same time in one topic creates confused context/content and if replies are convoluted, it becomes very difficult to split the topic into 2 separate discussions.

Just the way this forum has operated since it was created and if similar supporting information has been posted in another topic, posting a link to that topic is  easy to do.

Creating a unique topic for each phone or issue with a very good descriptive title (aides in doing a topic search) is best.

The replies in this topic have reached a level of convolution that makes it impossible for a moderator to split it into 2 topics.

[loblolly986]

I'm sorry but I must ask, is there a reason for the subtle hostility?  I've been feeling this vibe around here in responses to things I've been posting and asking since joining...am I just in the wrong place?  I can just tinker on my stuff in the isolation of my own little life, I just thought, maybe, it'd be a fun idea to join a social community about things I share an interest with people on and interact and contribute where I can.  If I'm doing this wrong yet again (after years of giving up on and trying to do social circles) then tell me so and I'll get out of your hair, I obviously don't know whatever everyone else in this world does about communicating with others about shared interests.

You're conducting yourself just fine, and any missteps thus far are minor and not at all uncommon on this or other forums I've been on over the years. Becoming proficient in the "norms" of discussion forums, and "netiquette" in general, is something that just takes time, observation of and picking up on how people and communities write and conduct themselves, and "living and learning", and you're already well within normal bounds on this, so don't be discouraged.

[G-Man]

I'm sorry but I must ask, is there a reason for the subtle hostility?  I've been feeling this vibe around here in responses to things I've been posting and asking since joining...am I just in the wrong place?  I can just tinker on my stuff in the isolation of my own little life, I just thought, maybe, it'd be a fun idea to join a social community about things I share an interest with people on and interact and contribute where I can.  If I'm doing this wrong yet again (after years of giving up on and trying to do social circles) then tell me so and I'll get out of your hair, I obviously don't know whatever everyone else in this world does about communicating with others about shared interests.

No hostile intent intended, just a gentle nudge that forum etiquette dictates that the original posters are shown proper respect by not hijacking their thread and possibly causing it to become muddled beyond comprehension. However, in retrospect, an even gentler approach should have been taken!
 
 That said, I am not the forum police, something that I will gladly leave to the competent moderators that already reside here.
 
I will also freely acknowledge that there are times where I have also been guilty of this and other similar faux pas. However I try learn from those who have taken the time to guide me and to not lash out to those who bring it to my attention.
 
Hopefully you will continue to contribute your apparent knowledge base and experience for the benefit of others on this forum.
 
In the meantime, I am currently in-flight to the San Jose Telephone Show where I hope to meet you and other members of this forum. Along with other members, I am also taking a large number of telephones and related tools and equipment that will be placed on the silent auction for the benefit of the clubs, or on the "free" tables.

[segaloco]

At the risk of further off-topic-ness, just want to say thanks for being understanding.  This internet stuff is not my scene, it's just all words on screens to me, all the rest is made up arbitrary structure by humans, not intrinsic aspects of the technology or mechanisms.  But you know the environment here better than I do, I'll just add this to the list of places in my mind where "type words into the screen" is more than that.

[HowardPgh]

I have not gotten my 2565HKM to work yet. When I wire my L1 and L2 to the plug's blue and blue/white wires all I get is a very weak dialtone and very little sidetone.
I'll try "segaloco's" suggestion to see if even the basic phone works.  I'm not sure if the network is bad or a contact in the dial is bad or a switchhook contact is bad. There appears to be several contacts in the signal path.
I'm the original poster of this topic and any suggestion replied to it is helpful to me.
The 2565 is way more complicated than the average 2500 or 500 type.

[HowardPgh]

I have recently troubleshooted my phone and found the reason for its poor functioning. Symptoms were weak transmit and low sidetone and receive volume.  Problem is in the keypad's muting switch that's on the back of the dial. I tried cleaning them but the contact is poor on several of the normally closed contacts. I'm not sure if its the contacts themselves or the thing that activates them not fully returning to rest.
Conclusion: Bad keypad (35AF3 I think)

[5415551212]

I have recently troubleshooted my phone and found the reason for its poor functioning. Symptoms were weak transmit and low sidetone and receive volume.  Problem is in the keypad's muting switch that's on the back of the dial. I tried cleaning them but the contact is poor on several of the normally closed contacts. I'm not sure if its the contacts themselves or the thing that activates them not fully returning to rest.
Conclusion: Bad keypad (35AF3 I think)

Can you post a photo of the contacts?

I have had luck with a poor mans contact cleaner 50/50 mix of WD-40 mixed and 99% IPA.
Or you can purchase a contact cleaner such as DeoxIT
To further test the phone you can also just remove the dial.
Next you need a KSU.

[SUnset2]

I have had luck with a poor mans contact cleaner 50/50 mix of WD-40 mixed and 99% IPA.
Or you can purchase a contact cleaner such as DeoxIT

Wd-40 can turn gummy over time.  As a relatively inexpensive spray cleaner/lubricant, I usually use CRC 2-26.  Around here the phone repairmen always carried a can in their toolboxes (along with Western Electric Contact Cleaner).  It's available at Home Depot in the electrical section.  It costs more than WD-40, but is cheaper than DeoxIT.

[HowardPgh]

More question concerning my 2565HKM.
Since the 35af Keypad is bad, can I change it with a 72 type pad used in standard 2500 sets.