Antique Mall Western Electric 202... $20.00...One "Small" Problem

[RDP]

Rigger1, Your paint job came out pretty good looking. I was hoping you were going to do back in blue. Looks great just the same.
I'm assuming it was below 60 degrees at the time you painted it and that's why you hung it above a heating source between coats. I wouldn't make a habit of this method though, especially during the warmer months because it can cause thinner popping and orange peel. Always remember to give the paint a 10-15 minute flash time between coats if temps are moderate (70- 80 degrees).
I never paint when it's below 65 degrees and above 75% humidity. And if you want to bake your paint AFTER it sets for 20 minutes you can bake it but, at no higher the 140 degrees SURFACE temp for about a 1/2 hour.

[JimH]

Here's my "not original" polane-coated blue "Continental" that I bought off ebay a couple of years ago.  I got it because I knew I'd probably never be able to find or afford an original!

[RDP]

Nice, I'd talk Rigger1 into trading cordage with me.

[Russ Kirk]

Here's my "not original" polane-coated blue "Continental" that I bought off ebay a couple of years ago.  I got it because I knew I'd probably never be able to find or afford an original!

That's a real nice phone JimH.  I see why you got it. It makes for a good show piece in the collection.

Russ...

[Rigger1]

Thank You everyone for you comments and  compliments and Thank you Dennis for the compliment and for the before and after picture. Jim that is a really sharp looking phone.

The paint job on my phone was done with a spray can of Rust-Oleum lacquer. I did a lot of light coats. After each coat dried to the touch I would let it sit above the radiator until well dried, then run 0000 steel wool over the surface before the next coat. A couple of areas needed 600 wet sanding between coats. After I finished painting I wet sanded with 600 paper, then the steel wool, then 3, 2, 1 Novus. Sounds like a lot but the finish sanding and polishing took very little time. Lacquer is really soft, so I will have to see how this holds up over time.

[Dewdrop]

Wow, Rigger1

Your phone looks great!


Debbie

[Kenny C]

Don't it though marge

[Dewdrop]

I have a similar one, but the base is oval shaped with a curly handset cord. Do 202's have round and oval bases? (possibly a dumb question)

Debbie

[Phonesrfun]

Debbie:

That is a confusing question, which warrants a confusing answer.  Are you sitting?

The "B" mount had a totally round base, and it was the earlier design, which had a tendancy to slide around when dialed, and so people had to hold it with one hand while dialing with the other, and find somehow to hold the receiver in the process.  They decided on doing a re-design and a year or so later came out with the elliptical shaped "D" mount.

We could stop there, and that would answer your question, but then you did bring up the 102/202 thing.

The real name for the mount was either a B mount or a D mount.  The 102 or 202 was not the design of the body of the phone, but was the kind of electronics that the phone was wired for.  A 102 was sidetone, and the later 202 was the better improved antisidetone.

The klinker is that either one of the B or D style bases could have been wired as 102 or 202 sets.

Many people assume that the first style B mount was the 102 and that the later D mount was the 202.  That was not always the case, but somehow the base styles have inherited the 102 and 202 designations.  Especially on e-Bay and even myself as a new collector a few years ago, I just went along with the "education" on antique phone terminology that I had acquired from reading e-Bay auctions.

So, how's that for the confusing answer to the simple question?

[Adam]

Original or not, Jim, it sure is pretty!

[bingster]

Rigger, the phone turned out beautiful!  The handset is especially nicely done.

[GG]

Yeah, beautiful job, all'round.  What are you going to do for a subset or ringer box for that one?

I"m guilty of  that 102/202 stuff, need to start saying B1 and D1 instead. 

[Rigger1]

Thanks everyone. This phone was a nice little project and I really enjoyed sharing it with everyone here. GG you asked a question that was on my mind. What to do for a subset. I have looked at the threads and pictures about using a  using a rotary desk phone network. That would work for the time being as I search for a metal ringer box. I have not come across one in a long time but I keep looking. This brings me to another question.  I have an old wooden ringer box. I have thought it would be nice to put a network in there and wire the old existing bells to it. Has anyone ever done this? Is it possible? I don't think I would use it for the B1, but it would be another good project. Thanks, Bill

[bingster]

Keep in mind, if you want to use the network from another phone as a temporary subset, it doesn't have to come from a rotary phone.  The network in a touch-tone phone is identical, and can be used, too.

As far as installing the network in an old ringer box, absolutely it's possible.    If you've got an empty box, pop a network in there, and a ringer if you have one, and you're good to go.

[Rigger1]

Should I start a new thread on this? ... I was wondering if I could use the old bells in the wooden ringer box with a new network... the bells would be Western Electric Model 38B ... (I think).. it would be nice to have the older bells .. just a thought...thanks