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wiring diagram for AE34 converted with modern components

Started by RotoTech99, April 17, 2020, 12:46:54 PM

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Dear Rdelius:

I'd have to agree with you on that I'd have to drill new holes to accommodate the Type 45 ringer; Thankfully, when I originally put the mini ringer in mine, I was able to use one of the existing mounting holes, and only had to drill one hole.

If I can, I'm going to try to place the D-56515A right where the raised areas are where the original ringer bracket attached with the gongs facing forward.

What is probably the trickiest part is finding mounting screws that will work with it.. I recall the Type 45 ringers in the metal base Type 80's used three pan head screws to mount; if that type screw will fit the D-56515's mounting holes, it will simplify things, of course only 2 will be needed.

I used to have a source for that type screw, so I guess I'll have to see if I can still get them.

My other reason for using that type screw is, it would give a more "manufacturer assembled look" that would come closer to the original look than modern hardware would.

I would also want to make sure the clapper/armature piece has enough space to freely move.

Once the ringer is tightened down and positioned, it should have sufficient room to operate, and be adjusted if needed.


Dear Forum:

I am happy to report that i have finished the conversion of my AE 34's wiring (the switchhook wiring) and have tested it out, with good results.

I know now that it's a 34A3 (20AL) set, according to my AE literature... Perhaps the one oddity to me is I read something about the 34A3 didn't have the right contours to the cradle to accept a 41 type handset, but mine accepts the type 41 handset with no issues.

I have yet to install the bug screen cloth over the vent slots, but will do that very soon.

The last thing I have planned is to add labels with the sets info. on them to it: the original markings are nearly unreadable due to the dark background, and I feel that the information should be readable for future reference.

I know there are those who disagree with doing that for various reasons; I'm not changing any information, but there will be pertinent info. added as needed.

As to the patent label, if i can find a readable one that matches the one on mine, i may add it so that information will be readable; if i cant, i'll leave that as it is.


Jack Ryan

Quote from: RotoTech99 on July 12, 2020, 10:03:18 AM
I know now that it's a 34A3 (20AL) set, according to my AE literature... Perhaps the one oddity to me is I read something about the 34A3 didn't have the right contours to the cradle to accept a 41 type handset, but mine accepts the type 41 handset with no issues.

If your phone accepts a Type 41 handset without it lifting at one end as it is moved from side to side then you have a 34A3B. This set is identical to the 34A3 except that the geometry of the cradle area is modified to accept the Type 41 handset. They generally have a spitcup version of the Type 41 handset.

Note the spitcup on the catalogue image.



Dear Jack Ryan:

Hi, i realized that it was a 34A3B after I posted the message; I did finish the work on it, including putting in the bug screens.

I'm thinking of later putting chrome bands and a chrome fingerwheel on it.

The DES # as best I could read it was 06286, due to wear and the color of the base, I've got 4 of the patent numbers: 1,616,311 1,719,992 1,842,822 and 1,738,919. Its stamped on the base in black ink.

I'm still not sure what the 3FA code means,either; That's one of the big things id like to find out about it.

From what I can gather it originally had a 33 cycle ringer and a rotary Type 24 dial; i'm using a 51 type dial,
with a numerals only number plate. I had debated adding a metro plate, but felt the numerals only plate was more appropriate to it.

I did add labels with the appropriate info, and a refurbished label so that if anyone asks, and they do want to buy it, they will know it is fully operational while giving the antique phone look most like.


Jack Ryan

I collected a lot of AE codes but not for the AE 34. I think there are some lists on here somewhere.

Your patents muse be hard to read.

1616311   x
1719992   Dial card retainer for Type 24 and later dial
1842822   x
1738919   Primarily, the hook switch
D06286   x

'x' indicates patents that were not relevant so the number is probably wrong. I copied the patents from another AE 34A3B.

1615311   Type 23 dial
1719992   Dial card retainer for Type 24 and later dial
1878800   Induction coil
1689598   Telephone circuit
1642822   Type 24 dial
1738919   Primarily, the hook switch
D86263   AE 34 case design



Dear Jack Ryan:

You're right, mine were hard to read, and some weren't, I suppose that isn't unusual for an older phone...

I'll make note of those numbers you provided, and if I decide to make a label with the numbers that is readable, at least I will now know what they are for my AE34.

I'm still wondering what the 3FA code means; I saw something about date codes for AE34's similar to that, but I can't recall where I saw it at here on the forum.



It takes time to understand this thread.

If I have this right.  The phone without original (suitable) components shall be rewired to work with a modern quality of sound, but still have the old look and rotary dial.

It is still wanted a traditional ringer.

suggestion for simple solution:  Any suitable ringer with gongs could be put in. (2 gongs will give a more authentic ringing than single gong, but will not be recognized by people not interested in phones or music)

The network could be replaced with any network available of an acceptable quality. (Electronic or traditional.)  The transmitter (microphone) must be suitable for the network chosen.  With a traditional (non electronic) network a transistorazed transmitter capsule will probably give the most modern sound quality.  (Electronic networks may demand other microphones)
The receiver will probably work well with the original element, but a dynamic receiver from a newer phone will probably give a better sound.

The hook-switch could be as pictured, disconnecting the ringer will of course stop tinkling as long as the ringer is disconnected, and will also stop the risk of stealing voice level.  This was most important on old German phones with lo ohm ringers, and are not that important on American ringer from the last 60 years.

A pulse to tone converter may be wanted, what you will use is depending on what you have available.  Just think about, should it be internal like Rotatone or similar, or external like DialGizmo or similar. Some of those are polarity sensitive, does that matter?


Dear dsk:

Hi, to answer a couple of your questions about my AE 34A3B....

It has a 425E-3T transmission network with jumper straps where needed to make the conversion work.

The hookswitch is original to the phone, but has been rewired with two leads to work properly with the modern network.

The Type 41 handset has the original capsules, and gives good sound quality both ways.

The dial I'm using is a AE 51.

At present, I'm using a ITT 148BA single gong ringer; it doesn't "bell tap"... I've thought of putting a two gong ringer in, but am not sure which would fit/work best.

The current capacitor, a.47uF, 250 VDC one, on the network can easily handle a modern two gong ringer, but finding one that would fit without extra modification is the " interesting part "; for the current ringer, only one extra hole was needed.

I thought of  putting a D-56515A ringer like used in the AE40 in as I've seen them mounted in AE 34's before, but I wonder if the. 47uF, 250VDC capacitor would be strong enough to allow it to ring; I think it originally used a 1 uF capacitor.

I do know the D-56515A has mounts that would match up with the AE34's base mounting holes, thankfully.



Thank you for the informations.
Sounds like a project that almost has to turn out well.
Regarding other ringers on the .47 uF cap, I have tested many, and surprisingly often it works well.