AE Stepbase Wiring

[Kmoody]

Reading other posts, it looks like I might have a series circuit, not a booster circuit. The phone dial only has three wires on it. The phone also has a push button switch on the base just above the number 2 that interrupts some circuit. Is there any possibility that I can getting it working on POTS?

[TelePlay]

What subset do you have, that you are using?

[HarrySmith]

It appears you are not the first to work with the wiring. I can see at least 2 terminals where soldered wires were removed. Of course it can be made to work, almost any phone can. TelePlay already asked about the subset, that is critical information we will need to figure out how to wire it.
BTW- Nice stick. The Mercedes dials are very cool.

[Kmoody]

I haven't been able to find an AE subset that might work for me. I did find two schematics on this site, that Ktownphoneco provided in 2015.

[TelePlay]

The first diagram (showing a 3 conductor mounting cord) is a side tone subset/desk stand.

The second diagram (showing a 4 conductor mounting cord) is an anti-side tone subset/desk stand.

The hook switch needs 1 extra leaf to be used (to accommodate the 4 conductor mounting cord) with an anti-side tone (power) subset.

Do you have images of your hook switch?

BTW, you have a nice Mercedes dial there, an early AE dial worth $100 or more by itself.

==========

You might find something useful in this topic with a similar desk stand:

https://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=16425.0

[Kmoody]

Thank You, I will look at that link.
Here are two pictures of the hook switch.

[TelePlay]

Isn't that the switch activated by the button next to the dial?

The hook switch is usually inside the column on AE desk stands.

Kellogg has the hook switch in the base but it doesn't look like that.

When you take the receiver off hook, does that switch in your base operate? Or does it operate when you push the button?

==========
Kellogg hook switch:

[Kmoody]

The hook switch is in the base. It's the switch in the center of the base picture. The receiver arm has a pivot point on it which is connected to a shaft, that goes into the base. The switch close to the edge of the base is actuated by a push button close to the number #2 on the dial.

[TelePlay]

I am not familiar with that base.

The important part to determine is if that hook switch is capable of interfacing with an anti-side tone subset. If not, you will need to connect it to a side tone subset.

Both subsets will let you connect the phone (desk stand plus subset) to a POTS line.

[TelePlay]

I gave you that link to show how a gutted candle stick was turned into a working phone.

First step was determining if the stick was side tone or anti-side tone capable, finding a subset that could be used with it, selecting a wiring diagram that will work, rebuilding the stick (adding all wiring), rebuilding the subset adding a 101A induction coil to make it anti-side tone and wiring it to match the wiring diagram and connecting the two together with a 4 conductor mounting cord.

I had never done anything like this before. You have to figure out what you have, what subset you will use and which wiring diagram you will use.

[Kmoody]

That was a beautiful phone when you finished it. I will have to take mine apart to see where all the wires go and then go from there.

[Kmoody]

Well I'm a failure. I thought I had this AE working with jumper cables everywhere. But nope nothing.
The dial on my candlestick only has three wires on it. Can I wire it up without the dial shunt contacts. Just eliminate the three wires going to the shunt switch.
I don't yet have a subset for it. I bought an AE bell box that I was going to put the 101 coil into. You guys have really been helpful getting that bell box working. I was trying to connect it like in this great schematic, using a 101 coil. Also I didn't connect the push button switch on the base to any wires.
The hook switch in the base has 4 contacts.
I'll start back on it next week after I get over my frustration with it. I really thought that I had it working.
I guess that's the fun part on this hobby, trying to rebuild a broken phone, into a working unit.

[dsk]

I will guess that it is possible to do some simplifying.

The candlestick will probably have a circuit close to what I have tried to make here.

It should be testable by just ID the 3 wires coming in.  (only 3 wires indivates a non anti sidetone subset)

Connecting the Red and Blue directly to the line should make it possible to get dial tone, and dial. (may be loud clicks in the receiver)
This way of connecting it will harm the receiver slowly, and after many hour of use the sound will be weak.

The ultra simple subset in my sctech will protect the receiver, and any non polarized capacitor between 2 and 5 uF will do the job, any coil with a DC resistance between 12 and 30 ohms will probably work well too.

When you get a coil from an old phone we may look at a better solution if needed. 

[Kmoody]

Thank you for schematic. I have an 101 coil and a coil out of an old wooden wall phone. I'll check the resistance of the two coils for the proper resistance of 12 to 30 ohms.
But everything has to wait until next week. My wife has other plans this week.

[dsk]

With the coil used on WE 302 and only 3 wires, we just drop the anti-sidetone, and put it up like this.