News:

"The phone is a remarkably complex, simple device,
and very rarely ever needs repairs, once you fix them." - Dan/Panther

Main Menu

Automatic Electric payphone wiring to convert

Started by Jf510, September 19, 2021, 12:42:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

poplar1

"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Jf510

Oh wow..that picture helps tremendously. Mine are way off. Thanks.

Jf510

I straightened out the contacts and that made a huge difference in closing the two pieces and locking the housing. Unfortunately the dial tone still stays on. It cuts off when dialing but comes back when the finger wheel is at rest. The white & blue leads are disconnected from the micro switch and I also reversed the line cord leads. No difference. I did not dismantle the dial housing to check the dial.  I didn't know if that was necessary yet.

poplar1

#33
If you pick up another phone on the same line (or call the pay phone from cell phone), then dial a number, such as 7, on the pay phone, do you hear 7 clicks in the receiver of the cell phone or other phone on the same line?

Do you have a working Western Electric 302 set, or a hand test set (installer/repairman's butt set)? A 302, or AE 40, or SC 1243, or Kellogg 1000 can be used to monitor the line if you remove the transmitter.

You say that the dial tone disappears while you turn the dial on the pay phone, but then returns when the dial is at rest. This can happen even if the pulsing contacts don't open at all, as the shunt contacts on the dial short out the receiver. But it can also happen if the pulsing contacts remain open (dial not adjusted properly) while dialing, in effect disconnecting the phone (hanging up) thus giving you a new dial tone.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Key2871

#34
Seems as though the pulse contacts are shorted, thus the dial tone doesn't really break as it's not seeing the pulses. The dil tone will "go away" as soon as the dial is moved off normal, so the receiver shunt is doing it's job but the pulses are or seem to be shorted.

But if it's not in the coin hopper, where?

When you trace the DP dial pile contacts on the schematic where do they go in the schematic, and on the actual phone set.
A lot of AEs used pulse shorting contacts so a coin had to be inserted to break the short.

I saw where the coin was dropped but no change.
Ok so it's either a bad dial or dial pulse contacts, or they are either not in their correct place, or they are being shorted.

It's a great idea to rotate the dial while connected to the set to see if clicks are heard.
If they are then the contacts are pulsing as they should but why isn't the set dialing out.

It could be that a wire or a component is blocking the pulses. If it's not a wire, then a component can be shorting or holding the line so the dial pulses but the CO doesn't see the pulses, because this component is blocking the pulse. That's another thing to look at if every thing checks out on the wiring.

Do you have a VOM volt ohm meter?
If you do, use the schematic to find the Dial Pulse contacts and disconnect a wire form one of the DP contact terminals.

Place your VOM on continuity, I suggest using gator clips to connect the meter leads to each side of the DP switch, rotate the dial slowly, then slowly let the dial return. Because if you just let the dial go, the pulses will happen so fast you'll never count the pulses.

If you dial a 2, the switch should break or open twice.
Same with each digit dialed.
If it's not opening then the dial has issues and needs work.
That's a whole other post to get that fixed.
Good luck, let us know what you find out.
KEN

Jf510

I turned the dial when plugged in and heard no clicks. I also did what poplar1 mention to call my landline from my cell then pick up with another phone and then turn the dial on the payphone to hear for clicks. I heard no clicks. I removed the dial from the housing and the wires were in the right location. I turned the finger wheel and the contacts seem to move properly although I don't know if in the right sequence. Sorry i don't know where the DP switch is and I don't see where it's marked on the schematic. I prior disconnected the two white leads from that switch as instructed the other day so now I disconnected the blue leads just to see what happens and no change. I connected them back. I also removed the two yellow leads from the unit with the bell but lost dial tone so I reconnected them. I rechecked the wiring and it looks to be in the right location. This is my first AE so I have no extra dial to try. I am trying anything but no luck. This phone sure has me stumped.

Key2871

Yea it looks like it's out of adjustment, the black and white leads are the pulse contact wires.
And the oblong wheel is the pulse unit.
I'm not good with AE stuff but it could be an adjust ment you can do, I'm not going to tell you how, because I'm not a AE person.
But someone can help in sure.
KEN

poplar1

By "DP"  he means dial pulsing. The black wire from dial going to 6 and the white wire from dial  going to 5 on the terminal block at bottom left of the upper housing.

If you disconnect either the black or the white wire,-- either on the dial itself or on the terminal block, there should be no dial tone when you reassemble the phone. And if you call the pay phone with the receiver off the hook, the line should not be busy .

I meant to listen forclicks in the calling phone, in the previous discussion.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Jf510

Thanks for that explanation. I disconnected the black dial wire on terminal 6 and reassembled the phone and I still had dial tone then I took the receiver off the hook and dialed my landline from my cell and and I had a busy signal.

Stan S

Disconnect the green wire going to the coin relay.

Jf510

Wow..that did it. It dials out fine. Thanks for that info and thanks to everyone's else's help. Can I ask one more thing on how to hook up a ringer?  The schematic shows to connect to the L2 & R1 terminal? Is that correct? I just want to make sure.

Stan S

L2 and R1 are correct. If you aren't going to use coins you can put the ringer in the vault. That way you won't destroy the originality of the payphone.

Key2871

KEN

Jf510

Thank you. I do not plan on using the coins so I will put it in the vault as you say. That's what I did with the WE payphones. I put the network and ringer below to keep as much original parts as I can. This AE was sure complicated for me. I am a collector but only have basic knowledge in repair.

Key2871

AE is a bit different from Westerns so that may have been some. But having readjusted the springs which you didn't know about just added to the complications.
But with each new phone comes a learning curve.
You did well to come here and ask for help.

Glad it's working for you now, we all learned something from it.
KEN