Regarding the ringtone volume of WE Wall phone

[hanami]

This one is not an easy repair, because you have a 653A base, but a  553A front (note the 3-leaf hook switch, which disconnects the talk circuit when the receiver is on the hook). Also, many wires have been replaced with new plastic wiring.

Since you are having ringer problems, the first step is to isolate the ringer circuit. Connect one side of the telephone line (green +) to the black ringer wire only (temporarily removing the talk circuit). Connect the red ringer wire to a 1 uF capacitor. Connect the other 1uF capacitor wire to the other side of the telephone line.

Again, this is to get only the ringer circuit  working.  For the talk circuit, you will have to deviate from the conventional wiring, since your phone is a mixture of 653A (anti-sidetone) and 553A (anti-sidetone).

I don't think it's going to be simple either. I think we need to learn more and understand the structure of the bell. It doesn't seem completely broken, so I'll do some testing. Thank you very much.

[TelePlay]

Your ringer seems fine, is working, isn't broken.

What poplar1 was telling you to do was to activate or operate the ringer when the ringer is isolated from the other circuits in the phone.

The ringer circuit is quite simple:

Line 1 -> ringer -> ringer to capacitor -> capacitor to Line 2

The ringer is an electro magnetic motor which runs on 60 to 90 volts A/C at 20 Hz.

Do this with all other phones disconnected from your VOIP device so the all of the power from your VOIP is being sent to just this ringer.

This is a basic, simple way to test a ringer.

[MMikeJBenN27]

553 is a side-tone phone (you can hear your own voice loudly in the receiver), 653 is an anti-side tone phone - you can hear your own voice, but only up to a certain level.  It will not allow more than a certain amount, as too much side-tone is annoying, and includes background noise, which makes it hard to hear.  Anti-sidetone debuted in about 1931, and many many side-tone phones were converted to anti-side-tone.  That might be what your's is, a 553 that the phone company converted into a 653.

Mike

[TelePlay]

Here's what poplar1 and Mike are talking about, the mixture of a side tone 553 front end with an anti-side tone 653 subset.

Anti-side tone requires a 4 leaf hook switch.



The older side tone used a 3 leaf hook switch.



The wiring diagram has a red circle that shows the 4 connections needed for anti-side tone circuit, which uses the newer 101A induction coil.



The wiring diagram green circle shows the 3 connections of a side tone circuit, which used the older tube shaped induction coil.



The difficulty poplar1 was referring to was meshing the 3 leaf 553 front end with the 4th lead that attaches to the 101A induction coil in the 653 subset to provide anti-side tone.

Someone who knows the circuit of both may be able to explain best how to mesh, to connect the two different types of circuits.

If you could create a wiring diagram of how your phone is wired, that would help and be interesting.

[MMikeJBenN27]

Didn't notice that.  Since he has a 4 wire condenser and a 101A coil, it would be easiest for him to just get a proper 4-leaf contact set and wire it accordingly.  Old Phone Works or Old Phone Shop should have what he needs.

Mike

[poplar1]

Didn't notice that.  Since he has a 4 wire condenser and a 101A coil, it would be easiest for him to just get a proper 4-leaf contact set and wire it accordingly.  Old Phone Works or Old Phone Shop should have what he needs.

MikeI

Actually, the high prices of these 2 suppliers + the high shipping costs are probably not worth the trouble.

If you follow the wiring, it appears to me that there are only 2 yellow wires connected to the hook switch, one connected to L2-Y on the induction coil, and the other to Y on the dial.

The green wire goes from GN on the induction coil to BB on the dial. So, the person who rewired this phone eliminated the missing two contacts on the hook switch from the circuit.

By bypassing this second pair of contacts, the phone will function, but there will be a "pop" in the receiver when hanging up. This can be reduced by adding a varistor in parallel with the receiver -- on terminals GN and R on the induction coil.