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WE 20B/20S

Started by shadow67, December 17, 2018, 10:41:39 AM

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shadow67

Thanks Ken I appreciate it. I don't win very many auctions because I am probably too cheap but I won this one. I really liked that it had the older nickel transmitter with the external wire and the *229* which I have read is more desirable. It cleaned up pretty good although I haven't tried to make it shine. When I looked at the inside of the transmitter it looked rusty especially where the external wire mounts in, but it works well.

Key2871

Sometimes making something shine isn't really important, just getting it back to how it should be is a great starting point. I saw that original green cord on that and wow, so many times people use brown, nothing wrong with that but if you could get the original color, all that much better.
You have done that, I'm impressed.
KEN

poplar1

When the receiver is on the hook -- i.e., the hook pushed down -- do the hookswitch contacts have a space between them? If you are still hearing dial tone for a couple of seconds after the hook is pushed down, it may be that the hookswitch is opening the transmitter, as it should, but the receiver is still connected.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Sargeguy

#18
A 20-B with patent dates on the perch would most likely not have patent dates on the base when originally issued circa 1905.  This was taken out of service and repainted black (20-S is the black 20-B) and the perch re-stamped in 1917 when nickel was going out of style. I assume they provided a replacement base when they repainted it.  So the phone is not "factory" but it is original "as removed from service".
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409

Sargeguy

It would also have originally had a 2-piece transmitter cup with patent dates.  Yours has a cup used in the 1910s.  The cup should have holes, not slots, for the transmitter screws.  Later 20-AL phones reused early 2-piece transmitter cups that were riveted together and the holes were  notched.  The lugs on those later cups are not solid, they have a space for a transmitter cord,  and they are painted black.
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409

shadow67

Thanks Sargeguy. On the manual WE candlesticks, what are the main differences between the 20B or 20S and the 20AL and the 40AL, other than the perch types and the patent dates? Ultimately I would love to have an all nickel stick with the external transmitter cord and maybe with an external terminal receiver. Those tend to be out of my price range, however.

Sargeguy

The 20-AL/PC used an insulated transmitter, a 20-B/20-S did not.  20-PCs are more affordable nickel candlesticks than an all original 20-Bs are. 
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409

shadow67

I finally revisited this phone today to try and see why it was not working correctly. I took it apart and noticed the crimped part on one of the spades was barely touching a nut on another terminal. I moved it and hooked it back up. Performs flawlessly both with a 315 magneto set and a 295A common battery subset.